My knuckles are white as I grip the handlebars tight and I am hanging my rear end out behind the bike seat to keep my weight back as far as possible as I hop from one stone-walled vineyard terrace down to the next. Thank goodness this is not the Wachau – the terraces are a little wider here in the Traisental!
Andreas Holzer, local vintner and my mountain bike guide in Traisental, stops to give me a chance to catch up with him. There is a delicate aroma of apple in the air and I look up to see an apple tree, its ripening fruit blushing in the late afternoon sun. Andreas points to vines around us and says, “In no other Austrian wine-growing area does Grüner Veltliner represent such a large proportion of territory. It makes up 63% of the Traisental vineyards. We are now standing in the Alte Setzen Vineyard from Markus Huber. He makes one of the region’s – no, one of the world’s – top Grüner Veltliners every year and has done much to raise the region’s profile.”
Really? Who in the world knows about Traisental? And why are the wines here so good and so inexpensive?
Pedalling through the Traisental terrain, I notice the landscape so typical for the wine growing areas along the Danube River west of Vienna. Many of the vineyards are terraced on hillsides, usually not quite as steep as the Wachau and thus the terraces are broader with several rows. Andreas points out the loess, decomposed material that has been deposited by the wind. “See these huge walls of loess on the side of the road? Sometimes it is several meters deep. But look ahead, do you see that vineyard? There is nearly no loess at all; the conglomerate base is completely exposed.” The Danube and Traisen Rivers function as climate regulators ensuring the circulation of warm air masses coming in from the Pannonian Plains to the east and the cold air from the deep forest district to the north. These are the perfect conditions for white wine varieties, in particular Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. It is quieter here and there is far less tourism than along other parts of the Danube, lending the area a peaceful and wholesome charm.
Wine is a cultural product with an identity that is rooted in climate, soil, and topography. Despite this, the Traisental appellation corresponds to a political border rather than to geological and meteorological attributes. The Traisental DAC corresponds exactly with the boundaries of the “Gerichtsbezirk St. Pölten Nord”. With a beginning metamorphosis of Austrian wine laws evolving from categories based on grape sugar content to wine laws based on geographical origins, one hopes that Austrian wine will eventually throw those political borders overboard. Andreas admits as much when he says, “Our soils are predominantly limestone conglomerate with loess top soil – perfect for Grüner Veltliner. The sites with little or no loess and less limestone are ideal for Riesling. I agree that the part of the Kremstal DAC that is south of the Danube River has more in common with Traisental than the part of the Kremstal to the north!” The DAC idea is based on establishing a geographic region of origin and identity that can be easily recognized by international consumers as a brand. With only 800 hectares of vineyards, Traisental remains a hidden secret. Despite this, in its short existence since 2006, the Traisental DAC is indeed contributing positively to the tiny region’s wine identity.
Grapes and wine have historically been one of the products of mixed agricultural farms in Traisental, and in all of eastern Austria for that matter. Only in the last two generations has one begun to see a shift to specialist production. The vineyard holding of a winery is still only two hectares. Despite their small size, Traisental wine producers have often had several different grape varieties and produce up to 30 different wines each vintage. The reason for this was to satisfy the demands of customers at the farm’s heuriger (wine tavern) where a significant portion of a farm’s products have traditionally been sold and consumed. This fractured structure has been both the charm and the curse of Traisental.
The Traisental DAC, established in 2006, recognizes Riesling and Grüner Veltliner as the best of what the Traisental has to offer. Wines from this geographic origin are single varietal wines that can be made from either variety and bottled either as “Classic” or as “Reserve”. No flavours of new oak or botrytis notes are allowed in either style. The “Classic” must show clear, crisp varietal character and have a minimum of 12% alcohol. The “Reserve” is harvested later and is more powerful and mineral with a minimum of 13% alcohol. This clearly defined concept is encouraging producers to concentrate on what is best suited to the region and international red wine varieties and other misfits are slowly being abandoned to fulfil the domestic demand for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling under the DAC labels.
If you take a look at a topographical and metrological map of Austria’s wine regions, one can see that the wine growing areas along the Danube from Krems to the borders of Vienna exhibit strong similarities. The top quality wines from Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram are all from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Crystal clear varietal character as a voice, an amplifier, for terroir is sought. The use of new oak or inclusion of botrytized grapes to enhance flavour is frowned upon as short-term cosmetic that disguise terroir and do not contribute to longevity.
"Berg" vineyard at the (c)Markus Huber Winery
Andreas and I arrive at our destination the Donau Restaurant in Traismauer. This is a favourite of him and his young vintner colleagues because it is located directly on the river and has a large, pleasant outdoor eating area and a perfect room indoors for seminars, tastings and wine presentations. While dining on local fish specialties, Andreas presents several wines from various Traisental wineries. “For a long time, the only vintner that exported and was known outside of Traisental was Ludwig Neumayr. He can really be considered the father of high quality wines of international format in our region. But then along came Markus Huber, a very young vintner, and he has shown us all what can be done if you make no compromises and concentrate on the great terroir that we have in Traisental. He has really become a source of inspiration for the new generation of vintners here.”
Ludwig Neumayr and Markus Huber are both members of the vintner association Traditionsweingüter. The association includes many of the elite wineries of the winegrowing regions Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram. For two decades, they have been working on a classification of vineyards based on long-term performance of these regions’ wines. The top 52 vineyards are called “Erste Lage”. The classification system does not yet hold any legal status nor has it been analyzed and approved by an official third party. Despite this, it does show visionary qualities. Austrian wines have been classified in the past by their grape sugar must content instead of origin. The DAC system is just in its early stages and will still evolve. Seen not only from a geological and meteorological standpoint, but culturally and from international marketing view, it would make sense to join these four political districts into one wine appellation and within that appellation make differentiations according to single vineyards.
Hedgehog cleaning the Donau Restaurant terrace at dusk (c)julia7ich
Fisher at sunset in Traisental (c)Julia7ich
As the sun sets we see a fisherman silhouetted against the river and a small hedgehog meanders over the terrace nibbling crumbs under the tables. I enjoy the peaceful idyll after a day of rock hopping on my bike through the Traisental. This secret place off the beaten track is home to untouched wine gems at very drinkable prices!
Finkus Bripp looks terrified and is securing his camera equipment. I am driving. “Last night you were talking about gently rolling vineyards, lush forests, and the leisurely pace of life in Mittelburgenland – the land of Blaufränkisch,” he says. “Why are we driving so fast?” We are trying to keep up with Clemens Reisner, one of the young new winemaking stars of the region. He is driving the Hans Igler Estate delivery van and we are following him to the Sonnengolf resort for a round of golf and an interview.
After warming up a bit on the driving range, Clemens and I stroll towards the first of 9 holes to tee off. A warm, dry breeze sweeps gently over the course and I note that it is coming in from the east. Clemens is able to adjust his swing accordingly. I am not a skilled golfer. “Climates that are good for vines are always climates where people feel comfortable, too. Our humidity and temperatures are regulated somewhat by Lake Neusiedl to the north, but we have less danger of Botrytis and birds than the regions closer to the lake! We are protected here by the Ödenburger Mountains to the north, Günser Mountains in the south, and the hills of the Bucklige Welt to the west. Our climate is warmer and drier here than in northern Burgenland and it is more strongly influenced by the warm Pannonian air masses reaching in from Hungary to the east.”
The entire province of Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WW I. This area is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. Although the region escaped communism, it did not really begin to economically recover from the two World Wars until the 1980s. “After the wine scandal of 1986, Austria’s wine export completely collapsed. My grandfather, Hannes Igler, and other vintners in the area saw it as a chance to successfully market wines that were more authentic to their region. Mittelburgenland is predestined for red wine, but the fashion before the wine scandal was for off-dry and semi-sweet white wines.”
Hannes Igler truly was one of the doyens of the region. He was well-travelled in the great red wine regions of the world and admired Bordeaux greatly. Although he was one of the first in Austria to plant international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and to mature his wines in small new oak barrels. The success of the Igler “Volcano”, a blend of Blaufränkisch with international varieties, put Mittelburgenland on the map as an emerging red wine region in the 1990s. Other vintners in the region like Weninger and Gsellmann soon joined him in the same league. Initially it was the internationally styled blends that enjoyed favoured preference from domestic critics and consumers. Luckily the vintners of Mittelburgenland were convinced of the potential of their Blaufränkisch and didn’t grub it up in favour of more fashionable varieties.
Now past the fifth hole and confidently playing quite a good game, Clemens expresses a little criticism for his region. “We weren’t completely immune to the fashions of the time, though. By the end of the 1990s and the beginning of this millennium, Mittelburgenland vintners were often leaving their grapes to hang much too long and the wines often displayed over-ripe, rather jammy fruit and unfortunately often too much volatile acidity. To make matters worse, many exhibited a heavy and clumsy hand with oak.”
It was indeed an awkward time, but this time it was not just the leading wineries of the region that spurred change. After Austria joined the EU, the region qualified for subsidies for modernization of vinification facilities and rationalization of vineyards. The two major cooperatives in Burgenland were also under excellent management with highly qualified winemakers. The cooperatives implemented viticultural improvements, rigorous yield restrictions and replanting of vineyards to varieties more suited to the climate and soil. 55% of the vineyard area is now planted to Blaufränkisch. The two Mittelburgenland cooperatives, Winzerkeller Neckenmarkt and Vereinte Winzer Blaufränkischland have joined the ranks of wine producers in the region that produce consistently good quality. Regional pride grew and as wines became increasingly authentic they were applauded by the international press.
Clemens concentrates deeply at the tee for the 9th hole. The air is still. He swings smooth and true and the ball sails. It lands on the green just a little over one and a half metres from the hole. Clemens smiles broadly and we continue our conversation as we walk towards the green. “I think the turning point is well demonstrated by the establishment of the Mittelburgenland DAC in 2005. It was clear to everybody on the Interprofessional Regional Committee that Blaufränkisch was not only the most suitable variety for our climate and soil. By that time we had also tracked two decades of single-vineyard examples of Blaufränkisch not only in Mittelburgenland, but throughout the province. The variety’s ability to express a unique terroir is well-proven and this point of difference is our way into the future.”
The loam and clay soils of Mittelburgenland are cool and have the capacity to store just enough water and moisture for the vines in long dry summers. Evening temperatures drop thanks to the surrounding forests ensuring that good acid structure is retained. Mittelburgenland Classic DAC is 100% Blaufränkisch, 100% from Mittelburgenland that has been matured in stainless steel or used barrels and casks that do not impart new oak flavours. Mittelburgenland Reserve DAC is also 100% Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, but may be matured in new oak if the vintner desires. The Classic may have up to 13% vol. alcohol while 13% is the minimum for the Reserve. After passing quality inspection for Qualitätswein aus Österreich (quality wine from Austria), both styles must also pass a tasting commission to determine that they fit the desired sensory profile.
Clemens putts his ball straight into the hole. The 9th hole with only two strokes – I’m impressed! To celebrate our good game and a fun video shoot, we go to the region’s most reputed restaurant, Horvath. The restaurant is a modernized interpretation of a classic Austrian Gasthaus. We are hungry, so order the 4-course gourmet lunch. Clemens leads us through a tasting of typical wines from the region. Although Blaufränkisch is the main variety and the only variety allowed for the (DAC) appellation wines, Mittelburgenland can boast impressive diversity. Dry white wines from Welschriesling and Chardonnay are followed by Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
When asked about tourism in the region, Clemens says, “Well, it is not has heavily trafficked as the areas near Lake Neusiedl, of course. It is quieter here – night life is pretty quiet and I think that is what our visitors seek. There are plenty of athletic opportunities here from hiking, walking, and biking to golf. Mittelburgenland is also appreciated for its thermal waters and we have several excellent spas, like at Sonnengolf today. The spa hotels are superb and all of them have well-stocked selections of wines from Mittelburgenland!”
As we get into the car to depart for our next adventure, Finkus definitely appears less tense than in the early morning. He says, “Do you ever notice how wines and people reflect their surroundings? Mittelburgenland is open-hearted and approachable, but man do those wines have good concentration and persistence!”
Since 2002, I have worked closely with Peter Moser and Falstaff Publications as the English editor of the annual guide of Austrian wines called “The Ultimate Austrian Wine Guide”.
The guide can be odered here.
A couple friends at the European Wine Bloggers Conference in Vienna this past weekend asked me for a list of producers of wine from organic grapes in Austria. It takes three years of observed and controlled conversion before a winery’s vineyards may become certified organic in the EU. There are currently several wineries that are in the conversion process, so the number of producers of wines from organic grapes in Austria continues to grow.
Currently certified are the following producers:
Weinbau Aichinger
Weingut Andrelhof
Arkadenhof Hausdorf
Weingärtnerei Artner
Weingut Beilschmidt
Weingut Bernthaler + Bernthaler
Bio-Musterweingut Josef Loimer
Weingut Biohof Lang
Weingut Holger Hagen CARPE VINUM
Bioweingut Diwald
Bioweingut Edelhof
Weingut Rudolf Fidesser
Weingut Friedrich Kuczera
Weingut Geyerhof
Weinbau Graf
Bioweingut Anton Groiss
Weingut Hager Matthias
Bioweingut Heideboden
Biohof Heideboden
Weingut Helmut und Petra Bergmann
Weingut Herrenhof Lamprecht
Weingut Höpler
Bio – Weingut H. u. M. Hofer
Karl Inführ KG
Bioweinbau Killmeyer
Biohof Klampfer
Bioweingut Klinger
Weingut Kloster am Spitz
Weingut Mantlerhof
Weingut Mehofer – Neudeggerhof
Rotweinbau Moritz
Weingut Anita & Hans Nittnaus
Weingut Pferschy-Seper
Weingut Pinkl
Biohof Pratsch
BioSektkellerei Rittsteuer GmbH
Bioweingut Schnabl
Weingut Schönberger
Weingut Sepp Moser
Silberberg Landesweingut, Weinbauschule
Weinkellerei Vinokus
Biowein Weber
Weingut Weiss
Weingut Weninger
Weingut Werlitsch
Weingut Wimmer-Czerny
Bioweingut Zillinger Johannes
And certified biodynamic are the following producers:
Weinbau Andert – Wein
Weingut Fritz Salomon Gut Oberstockstall
Familie Tscheppe Eselböck KG Gut Oggau
Meinklang
Weingut Muster Maria & Sepp
Nikolaihof Wachau
Weingut Karl Schnabel
Bioweingut Soellner
Jürgen Schmücking was so kind to make me aware of a few more producers of wine from organic grapes:
Gourmets in the USA call it “Grüner” and it is sipped in the chic, top restaurants from New York to San Francisco. Grüner Veltliner is now finding its way into American vineyards as well.
“Unique. Versatile. A culinary genius. The last of the great European grape varieties!” Ten years after its successful breakthrough in the USA, Grüner Veltliner remains the darling of the wine scene. The popularity of Austria’s leading wine variety in the land of boundless possibilities continues.
The export of Grüner Veltliner in the USA began at an ideal time. The market was saturated with faceless wines at the end of the 1990s. One spoke of the ABC syndrome – Anything But Chardonnay. And one also cried, “Anything but oak!” At this time Austrian vintners were in the process of discovering the potential of the variety to express a unique terroir. The glycol scandal of the 80s had catalysed giant leap in wine quality. Low yields and improved vinification methods brought a broad spectrum of Grüner Veltliner styles in a quality that had never before been experienced. It was only a question of time until thirsty American head hunters discovered the talented natural beauty.
Permanent Place in the Hall of Fame
Terry Theise of Michael Skurnik Wines said, “Grüner Veltliner is not just chic at the moment, it deserves a permanent place in the Hall of Fame of important grape varieties and a leading role among the wines to pair with food.” Its place of honour became guaranteed through praise from wine critics like Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer as well as diverse wine magazines like Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.
The USA is one of the few growing wine markets in the world. Continued per capita consumption growth is predicted that would put the USA ahead of France, Italy and Spain. New vineyards are being planted in nearly every State. Because nearly no historic, cultural, or legal restrictions exist, the choice of grape variety is colourfully diverse. The number of Grüner Veltliner vines thriving in American soil is growing.
Pioneers on the East Coast
Many Europeans think that the only American wine comes from California. Only insiders know that there are great wines from Washington and Oregon as well. One might be tempted to claim that only European wine geeks know about the wonderful wines of the East Coast.
While many regions have established an identity with a particular variety – take Finger Lakes and Riesling, for example – other areas are still searching for a vine with which they can position their region. The vintner couple Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron from Black Ankle Winery in Maryland planted one thousand Grüner Veltliner vines in 2002. Sarah had fallen in love with the variety as she tasted a wine from the Martin Nigl Estate from the Krems Valley. They purchased their vines from a nursery in Massachusetts that has had Grüner Veltliner in its inventory since the 1970s. His Grüner Veltliner is lean, straight-forward and somewhat sauvignonesque with aromas of pear and fresh garden herbs. Ed is enthusiastic about the demand for the variety, but is not so thrilled about its performance in the extremely wet climate. Black rot makes his efforts with organic viticulture frustrating.
Herbert Zillinger, flying vineyard consultant from the Weinviertel in Austria
A vintner association on the central East Coast sees Grüner Veltliner as a promising possibility for the region. John Weygandt of Stargazers Vineyards and president of the Pennsylvania Quality Assurance Group invited the Weinviertel vintner Herbert Zillinger to their vintner conference. Zillinger spoke about the vinification of the variety and inspected several Grüner Veltliner vineyards. “For the most part, the yields on the East Coast are exceedingly high and they are harvesting much too early. The wines are also vinified far too reductively for my tastes. Despite this, the climatic and geological conditions, particularly in Pennsylvania, are similar to those in Austria. Tremendous potential certainly exists.”
Galen Glen Vineyards in Pennsylvania is situated at a fairly high elevation of 320m. Grüner Veltliner feels at home here in a slate slope. The decision to plant Grüner Veltliner was actually not even based on the affinity to terroir. Winemaker Sarah Troxell admits, “I read in Food & Wine magazine about how well Grüner Veltliner pairs with my favourite vegetable, white asparagus. After my husband Galen and I drank a wine from the Hirsch Estate, Grüner became our favourite variety.” The vines bring Galen and Sarah very healthy, aromatic fruit. After Herbert Zillinger’s motivating visit, further quality improvements are being made and another 2.5 hectares of Grüner Veltliner is planned.
Washington
Bob Betz MW of Betz Family Winery produces predominant red wine of premium quality from fruit that he obtains from the Columbia Valley on the other side of the Cascade Mountains. But right beside his front door in Woodinville near Seattle are 150 Grüner Veltliner vines. “I adore Grüner. It is a combination of crystal clear structure and intensity; its balance can simply not be exceeded. I will harvest my first GV in autumn 2009 and produce a few bottles just for myself and my friends. I will never be able to achieve the quality of Pichler, Alzinger or Bründlmayer here, but it would be possible in the Columbia Gorge.”
The Columbia River cuts a deep gorge in the volcanic Cascade Mountains on the east end of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Cool ocean winds rush through this river canyon. The vegetation on the west end is green and lush, but as one travels east, it grows dramatically warmer and drier. There are currently only around 120 ha of vines in this AVA, but the quality of the fruit is extaordinary. The vineyards are breathtakingly beautiful on both the Washington and on the Oregon side of the river. “2009 will be my third harvest with Grüner Veltliner from the Underwood Mountain Vineyard,” says Rich Cushman from Viento Winery in Hood River. “I press whole bunches and let the wine mature long on the fine lees. Grüner thrives wonderfully here and my clients just as enthusiastic as I am.” The vineyard is situated 400m above the river with a majestic view of the snow and glacier covered Mount Hood. The climate is harsher than in the Wachau and the slopes are dominated by basalt rather than primary rock. Perhaps this is the explanation for the unique exotic fruit and mineral components of the Viento Grüner Veltliner and from the neighbouring Syncline Winery.
Prayer Rock cellar door welcomes visitors for wine tasting
“We were the first to plant and produce Grüner Veltliner in Oregon,” says Stephen Reustle. Reustle and his wife Gloria moved from Pennsylvania to Umpqua Valley in south Oregon to establish Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards in 2001. After consultation with the experts Greg Jones and Dr. Richard Smart, they planted 14 hectares of vines where grapes had never before been planted. The vine material was sourced from University of California Davis and 1.5 ha of Grüner Veltliner was planted in a loam slope of 35° inclination. All of the vineyards have biblical names and were planted with the help of Reustle’s friends and church community. Umpqua Valley is situated east of the Cascades and protected from the wet influence of the Pacific making it a hot and dry area. But Prayer Rock is situated at 800m and a forest on the ridge of the mountain above the vineyard provides cool evening lee winds. Drip irrigation relieves stress. The result is a very typical Grüner Veltliner with refreshing acid, green apple fruit and a hint of pepper.
The Willamette Valley is situated on the other side of the Cascade Mountains and is world famed for its Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. There we discovered three wineries producing Grüner Veltliner in three different AVAs. The Raptor Ridge Winery planted their GV in a strip of loess in the Chehalem Mountains AVA and had their first harvest in 2009. Winemaker Scott Schull planted his vines with 5 meters between the rows and 1.5 m between the vines – he will hardly achieve the concentration of his role model Emmerich Knoll at this density.
Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem wines, Photo (c) Marvin Collins
Harry Pederson-Nedry of Chehalem Wines is more experienced; he was the first to plant 22 ha of vines in what is today the Ribbon Ridge AVA in 1980. A unique soil composition of Basalt, marine limestone and loess called Willakenzie soil initially inspired him to plant Burgundian varieties. His newest baby is Grüner Veltliner which he planted over a consecutive three year period. Due to the fertile soil and the abundant rain of the region, he chose low-vigour roots for his vines and planted at 1m x 1.5m density. The first yield was small and only 40 cases were produced in 2008. These were immediately sold out and unfortunately, we could not taste it.
Daedalus Cellars was also convinced that the cool climate of the Willamette Valley would suit Grüner Veltliner. Pam Waldon and her husband Aaron Hess encountered the variety during their travels and work in Europe. The young couple was able to convince their growers in the Eola Hills near Salem to regraft ¾ of a hectare of Müller Thurgau to Grüner Veltliner. The first harvest was in 2007 and the wine was literally ripped out of their hands – people loved it. The young winemakers do not yet own their own vineyards. They would like to have not only the region’s dominant varieties Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris, but also more Grüner Veltliner.
California
Rudi Strasser’s father was Austrian and his mother was from Hungary. It was this Austro-Hungarian heritage that inspired the Cabernet vintner to plant a couple Grüner Veltliner vines in 2003. The first harvest was experimental. Rudi underestimated Grüner Veltliner’s need for protein stabilisation with the second harvest and had to recall the few bottles that were initially sold. Despite this, the Californian’s curiosity had been stirred and the pre-oders for his Grüner Veltliner far exceeded his production capacity. For this reason Rudi von Strasser decided to donate a quantity of this wine to the Napa Valley Charity Auction and sell the rest exclusively in local restaurants. In the meantime the vineyard area has been expanded to 1 hectare. Still, Rudi views himself as a Cabernet Sauvignon specialist, “And besides, the soil and warm climate here in the Diamond Mountain AVA is predestined for red wines. Grüner will remain a little niche specialty.”
Richard Alfaro is new to the wine branch and quickly made a name for himself with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. His success is based on the unique terroir of the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA south of San Francisco. Richard and his wife Mary Kay purchased a 30 ha apple orchard and converted this to wine. Alfaro experience a “groovy epiphany” on a visit to Nikolaihof. As a result, the newest plantings are Grüner Veltliner. “I know that it will be easy to sell, but I swear my reasons are not only commercial. The life of a vineyard is long and you have to plan for the next generation. Grüner is not just a passing fashion. It is quite simply one of the very best grape varieties and accompanying wines to food.” As the eyes wander over the raw, mountainous terrain and one feels the cool breeze, one knows intuitively that Grüner Veltliner will feel at home here.
International Classic
There is still yet little track record for Grüner Veltliner production in the USA. As so often in young wine regions, vines are not initially always planted in their ideal soil and climate. There are presently only two main Grüner Veltliner clones available in the USA. The vine nurseries are supplied by the University of California Davis. In a couple of successful vineyards, for example the one at Galen Glen in Pennsylvania and in the Eola Hills near Salem, Oregon, it is not the Davis clones, but more likely “suitcase” clones of unclear origins that are cultivated. Experience still needs to be collected in the various vineyards and adjustment made. Experiments with vinification are also being made and methods perfected. Much of what Austrian vintners know and have practiced with the variety for generations still appears to be mysterious magic to colleagues in the USA. Austrian vintners should feel flattered by this admiration. Austrian Grüner Veltliner is seen as a role model on an international scale and can now be considered a true classic wine.