The Wine Women Awards is an international competition organized by Bottin Gourmand showcasing the talent and knowledge of women who are passionate about wine. In 2007, around 400 women from more than 30 countries had registered to participate in the competition. Julia was among the five finalists in the final competition in the professional category held in Hotel Bristol in Paris, which was won by the Canadian Sommelier Veronique Rivest.
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For the second year in a row, AXA Millésimes has offered a generous Scholarship for Institute Masters of Wine students in 2010. Applicants were requested to write up to 10000 words on a given topic. Five MW students won the scholarship which was a study trip to AXA Millésimes properties for the harvest of 2010. I was one of the lucky MW students that were awarded the scholarship!
In the hope that pictures speak a thousand words, here is a short slide presentation as an overview of a very enriching educational experience:
Julia was the moderator of the panel discussion “Online Wine Commerce” at the EWBC 2010 in Vienna
Panelists:
- Rowan Gormley, Founder and CEO of Naked Wines
- Evelyn Resnick, Author of “Wine Brands“
- Andre Ribeirinho, Founder and CEO of Adegga.com
The growing number, and influence, of bloggers and online wine lovers is changing how we buy and sell wine. What does this mean for how we create and use content? What does it mean for the wine business? What new opportunities are there for wine retailers and consumers?
Please participate in this online wine survey. It is purely academic, non-commercial, you can take it anonymously. It only takes 5 minutes of your time!
Many thanks!
Gourmets in the USA call it “Grüner” and it is sipped in the chic, top restaurants from New York to San Francisco. Grüner Veltliner is now finding its way into American vineyards as well.
“Unique. Versatile. A culinary genius. The last of the great European grape varieties!” Ten years after its successful breakthrough in the USA, Grüner Veltliner remains the darling of the wine scene. The popularity of Austria’s leading wine variety in the land of boundless possibilities continues.
The export of Grüner Veltliner in the USA began at an ideal time. The market was saturated with faceless wines at the end of the 1990s. One spoke of the ABC syndrome – Anything But Chardonnay. And one also cried, “Anything but oak!” At this time Austrian vintners were in the process of discovering the potential of the variety to express a unique terroir. The glycol scandal of the 80s had catalysed giant leap in wine quality. Low yields and improved vinification methods brought a broad spectrum of Grüner Veltliner styles in a quality that had never before been experienced. It was only a question of time until thirsty American head hunters discovered the talented natural beauty.
Permanent Place in the Hall of Fame
Terry Theise of Michael Skurnik Wines said, “Grüner Veltliner is not just chic at the moment, it deserves a permanent place in the Hall of Fame of important grape varieties and a leading role among the wines to pair with food.” Its place of honour became guaranteed through praise from wine critics like Robert Parker and Stephen Tanzer as well as diverse wine magazines like Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast.
The USA is one of the few growing wine markets in the world. Continued per capita consumption growth is predicted that would put the USA ahead of France, Italy and Spain. New vineyards are being planted in nearly every State. Because nearly no historic, cultural, or legal restrictions exist, the choice of grape variety is colourfully diverse. The number of Grüner Veltliner vines thriving in American soil is growing.
Pioneers on the East Coast
Many Europeans think that the only American wine comes from California. Only insiders know that there are great wines from Washington and Oregon as well. One might be tempted to claim that only European wine geeks know about the wonderful wines of the East Coast.
While many regions have established an identity with a particular variety – take Finger Lakes and Riesling, for example – other areas are still searching for a vine with which they can position their region. The vintner couple Ed Boyce and Sarah O’Herron from Black Ankle Winery in Maryland planted one thousand Grüner Veltliner vines in 2002. Sarah had fallen in love with the variety as she tasted a wine from the Martin Nigl Estate from the Krems Valley. They purchased their vines from a nursery in Massachusetts that has had Grüner Veltliner in its inventory since the 1970s. His Grüner Veltliner is lean, straight-forward and somewhat sauvignonesque with aromas of pear and fresh garden herbs. Ed is enthusiastic about the demand for the variety, but is not so thrilled about its performance in the extremely wet climate. Black rot makes his efforts with organic viticulture frustrating.
Herbert Zillinger, flying vineyard consultant from the Weinviertel in Austria
A vintner association on the central East Coast sees Grüner Veltliner as a promising possibility for the region. John Weygandt of Stargazers Vineyards and president of the Pennsylvania Quality Assurance Group invited the Weinviertel vintner Herbert Zillinger to their vintner conference. Zillinger spoke about the vinification of the variety and inspected several Grüner Veltliner vineyards. “For the most part, the yields on the East Coast are exceedingly high and they are harvesting much too early. The wines are also vinified far too reductively for my tastes. Despite this, the climatic and geological conditions, particularly in Pennsylvania, are similar to those in Austria. Tremendous potential certainly exists.”
Galen Glen Vineyards in Pennsylvania is situated at a fairly high elevation of 320m. Grüner Veltliner feels at home here in a slate slope. The decision to plant Grüner Veltliner was actually not even based on the affinity to terroir. Winemaker Sarah Troxell admits, “I read in Food & Wine magazine about how well Grüner Veltliner pairs with my favourite vegetable, white asparagus. After my husband Galen and I drank a wine from the Hirsch Estate, Grüner became our favourite variety.” The vines bring Galen and Sarah very healthy, aromatic fruit. After Herbert Zillinger’s motivating visit, further quality improvements are being made and another 2.5 hectares of Grüner Veltliner is planned.
Washington
Bob Betz MW of Betz Family Winery produces predominant red wine of premium quality from fruit that he obtains from the Columbia Valley on the other side of the Cascade Mountains. But right beside his front door in Woodinville near Seattle are 150 Grüner Veltliner vines. “I adore Grüner. It is a combination of crystal clear structure and intensity; its balance can simply not be exceeded. I will harvest my first GV in autumn 2009 and produce a few bottles just for myself and my friends. I will never be able to achieve the quality of Pichler, Alzinger or Bründlmayer here, but it would be possible in the Columbia Gorge.”
The Columbia River cuts a deep gorge in the volcanic Cascade Mountains on the east end of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Cool ocean winds rush through this river canyon. The vegetation on the west end is green and lush, but as one travels east, it grows dramatically warmer and drier. There are currently only around 120 ha of vines in this AVA, but the quality of the fruit is extaordinary. The vineyards are breathtakingly beautiful on both the Washington and on the Oregon side of the river. “2009 will be my third harvest with Grüner Veltliner from the Underwood Mountain Vineyard,” says Rich Cushman from Viento Winery in Hood River. “I press whole bunches and let the wine mature long on the fine lees. Grüner thrives wonderfully here and my clients just as enthusiastic as I am.” The vineyard is situated 400m above the river with a majestic view of the snow and glacier covered Mount Hood. The climate is harsher than in the Wachau and the slopes are dominated by basalt rather than primary rock. Perhaps this is the explanation for the unique exotic fruit and mineral components of the Viento Grüner Veltliner and from the neighbouring Syncline Winery.
Prayer Rock cellar door welcomes visitors for wine tasting
“We were the first to plant and produce Grüner Veltliner in Oregon,” says Stephen Reustle. Reustle and his wife Gloria moved from Pennsylvania to Umpqua Valley in south Oregon to establish Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards in 2001. After consultation with the experts Greg Jones and Dr. Richard Smart, they planted 14 hectares of vines where grapes had never before been planted. The vine material was sourced from University of California Davis and 1.5 ha of Grüner Veltliner was planted in a loam slope of 35° inclination. All of the vineyards have biblical names and were planted with the help of Reustle’s friends and church community. Umpqua Valley is situated east of the Cascades and protected from the wet influence of the Pacific making it a hot and dry area. But Prayer Rock is situated at 800m and a forest on the ridge of the mountain above the vineyard provides cool evening lee winds. Drip irrigation relieves stress. The result is a very typical Grüner Veltliner with refreshing acid, green apple fruit and a hint of pepper.
The Willamette Valley is situated on the other side of the Cascade Mountains and is world famed for its Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. There we discovered three wineries producing Grüner Veltliner in three different AVAs. The Raptor Ridge Winery planted their GV in a strip of loess in the Chehalem Mountains AVA and had their first harvest in 2009. Winemaker Scott Schull planted his vines with 5 meters between the rows and 1.5 m between the vines – he will hardly achieve the concentration of his role model Emmerich Knoll at this density.
Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem wines, Photo (c) Marvin Collins
Harry Pederson-Nedry of Chehalem Wines is more experienced; he was the first to plant 22 ha of vines in what is today the Ribbon Ridge AVA in 1980. A unique soil composition of Basalt, marine limestone and loess called Willakenzie soil initially inspired him to plant Burgundian varieties. His newest baby is Grüner Veltliner which he planted over a consecutive three year period. Due to the fertile soil and the abundant rain of the region, he chose low-vigour roots for his vines and planted at 1m x 1.5m density. The first yield was small and only 40 cases were produced in 2008. These were immediately sold out and unfortunately, we could not taste it.
Daedalus Cellars was also convinced that the cool climate of the Willamette Valley would suit Grüner Veltliner. Pam Waldon and her husband Aaron Hess encountered the variety during their travels and work in Europe. The young couple was able to convince their growers in the Eola Hills near Salem to regraft ¾ of a hectare of Müller Thurgau to Grüner Veltliner. The first harvest was in 2007 and the wine was literally ripped out of their hands – people loved it. The young winemakers do not yet own their own vineyards. They would like to have not only the region’s dominant varieties Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris, but also more Grüner Veltliner.
California
Rudi Strasser’s father was Austrian and his mother was from Hungary. It was this Austro-Hungarian heritage that inspired the Cabernet vintner to plant a couple Grüner Veltliner vines in 2003. The first harvest was experimental. Rudi underestimated Grüner Veltliner’s need for protein stabilisation with the second harvest and had to recall the few bottles that were initially sold. Despite this, the Californian’s curiosity had been stirred and the pre-oders for his Grüner Veltliner far exceeded his production capacity. For this reason Rudi von Strasser decided to donate a quantity of this wine to the Napa Valley Charity Auction and sell the rest exclusively in local restaurants. In the meantime the vineyard area has been expanded to 1 hectare. Still, Rudi views himself as a Cabernet Sauvignon specialist, “And besides, the soil and warm climate here in the Diamond Mountain AVA is predestined for red wines. Grüner will remain a little niche specialty.”
Richard Alfaro is new to the wine branch and quickly made a name for himself with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. His success is based on the unique terroir of the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA south of San Francisco. Richard and his wife Mary Kay purchased a 30 ha apple orchard and converted this to wine. Alfaro experience a “groovy epiphany” on a visit to Nikolaihof. As a result, the newest plantings are Grüner Veltliner. “I know that it will be easy to sell, but I swear my reasons are not only commercial. The life of a vineyard is long and you have to plan for the next generation. Grüner is not just a passing fashion. It is quite simply one of the very best grape varieties and accompanying wines to food.” As the eyes wander over the raw, mountainous terrain and one feels the cool breeze, one knows intuitively that Grüner Veltliner will feel at home here.
International Classic
There is still yet little track record for Grüner Veltliner production in the USA. As so often in young wine regions, vines are not initially always planted in their ideal soil and climate. There are presently only two main Grüner Veltliner clones available in the USA. The vine nurseries are supplied by the University of California Davis. In a couple of successful vineyards, for example the one at Galen Glen in Pennsylvania and in the Eola Hills near Salem, Oregon, it is not the Davis clones, but more likely “suitcase” clones of unclear origins that are cultivated. Experience still needs to be collected in the various vineyards and adjustment made. Experiments with vinification are also being made and methods perfected. Much of what Austrian vintners know and have practiced with the variety for generations still appears to be mysterious magic to colleagues in the USA. Austrian vintners should feel flattered by this admiration. Austrian Grüner Veltliner is seen as a role model on an international scale and can now be considered a true classic wine.
The above is an excerpt of the 2010 edition of the book “Grüner Veltliner: Austria’s Trendsetter and it’s Vintners” which will be released at the end of May 2010.
Penfolds Grange – A Vertical Tasting of Ten Vintages
March 27th, 2010 at Hotel Schachtnerhof in Wörgl, Austria
Max Schubert was bursting with ideas after returning from an extended trip to Europe. He had been sent there by his employers at Penfolds to explore developments in sherry production, but it was his time in Bordeaux that had inspired his greatest ambition. It was on the long flight back to Australia in 1950 that Max Schubert decided that he wanted to create a great Australian red wine. A wine to lift Australia out of mediocrity – a red wine of quaöity comparable to the greatest wines of the world and capable of staying alive for decades.
Grange was revolutionary at the time. Everything about the wine was over the top. The barrel ferment characters and volatile acid were greatly misunderstood and snuffed by the local pundits. After an infamous tasting of Grange by Penfolds board members and Sydney wine authorities, the company decided to cease production of Grange in 1957. Max Shubert continued to make small quantities in strict secrecy in 1957, 1958 and 1959. A second tasting with the same board members was organized in 1960 and the bottle aged 1951 and 1955 vintages were greeted with enthusiastic approval. Grange was reinstated and gradually won acceptance among the cognoscenti. Penfolds Grange has since become an Australian icon – a National Trust heritage-listed wine and its creator, Max Schubert, an Australian folk hero.
Grange is made predominantly from Shiraz and a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is almost always a multi-district blend sourced from prime vineyards in South Australia. Significant Shiraz contributions come from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale while Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Robe and Bordertown. Fermentation begins in steel tanks with wax-lined wooden header boards and is completed in oak barrels. It is matured for 18 to 20 months in new 300 litre American oak barrels. It was named after Grange Cottage, build in 1845, at Magill Estate and itself named for Mary Penfold’s family home in England. It was initially labelled Grange Hermitage to pander to Sydney society until 1989. Since the 1990 vintage it has been simply called Grange. Since 1994 it is packaged in laser-etched bottles with identification numbers to improve traceability and prevent forgery.
There have been four chief winemakers in the history of Grange: Max Shubert 1951-1975, Don Ditter 1975-1986, John Duval 1986-2002, and Peter Gago 2002- present. The winemaking philosophy has remained consistent over half a century. The style has been refined, reflecting advances in vineyard and technology. Max Shubert originally aimed to make a wine of between 11.5 and 12% alcohol and that has risen to around 13.5%. This is due to the acknowledgement of the significance of tannin ripeness as well as fruit ripeness. The level of volatile acidity has dropped and more attention is paid to the seasoning and quality of oak. Still Max Schubert’s original practices, selection of the very best ripe fruit, submerged cap vinification and completion of the fermentation in new American barrels, continues.
Zalto Manufaktor provided the stemware for the Penfolds Grange Vertical Tasting
Upon my visit to Penfolds in November 2009, Peter Gago provided me with a list of his personal first and second choices for present tasting. With little exception, it was from this list that we were able to choose our wines for this tasting. All wines were double-decanted four hours before the tasting. This means that after the initial decanting, the bottles were rinsed clean and the wine returned again to the bottle. This eliminated the often quite considerable depot without overly exposing the wines to danger of oxidation. The corks were often in poor condition and seemed nearly glued to the inside of the bottle making their removal extremely challenging. It would not be inappropriate for a sommelier faced with the daunting task of opening an old bottle of Grange to consider the use of a heated port tong to break off the top of the bottle neck. Even for our very experience sommelier, it was not always possible to open the bottles without destroying the cork. A wine sieve was used to remove any cork particles. One wine was cork tainted.
1995
Saturated dark rich red colour. Rich blackberry liqueur and black currant jelly, liquorice and cardamom comprise an impressively vibrant nose. Full bodied with abundant velvety tannins that have not yet begun to decay. Warm ripe dark fruit, lifted balsamic components and leather linger on the finish. Drink now to 2020. 91 points
1993
Dark garnet ruby. Chocolate malt, dried fig and minty cedar make a rather exotic impression on the nose and are further complimented by balsamic-drenched raspberries and smoky graphite in the mouth. The tannin is now fully evolved and the wine is at the ultimate of its peak and should be drunk now and within the next 3 years (until 2013). 90 points
1992
Deep dark ruby. Intense tobacco and leather wrapped around a core of blackberry and nougat. Fine-grained satiny mouthfeel with supple tannins. Round, ripe fruit, soft smoky nuances and dark spice linger on the finish. Good but not great. Complex but not profound. Long but eternal. Drink now to 2015. 91 points
1991
Dark ruby. Deep ripe spiced blackberry pie. Mild acid and soft fluffy tannins. Open-hearted and lush, lacking somewhat in structure but comforting seductive in its pure dark berry fruit and butter cookie generosity. Drink now to 2020 without expectations for further development. 92 points
1990
Dark ruby garnet. Relatively discreet plum fruit and a hint of smoked bacon, pepper, vanilla and clove. Richer and riper than expected in the mouth with spicy wild berries and chocolate coating the mouth through the finish. Elegance is expressed in the firm structure and the wine will continue to evolve advantageously for another two decades. 93 points
1986
Deep dark ruby with garnet highlights. Evolving multi-layered intensity in the glass… liquorice and chilli-chocolate layered with plums, cassis and cedar. Heady, lush and extravagant with very tightly knit, ripe tannins. Long and intense. Still has stamina for another two decades. 95 points
1982
Dark garnet-ruby. Abundant still firm tannins. Rich ripe sweet red berries, tobacco and nougat. Fine and precise, perhaps more classic and nearly left bank Bordeaux-like in structure. The tannins are abundant, fine-grained and firm. Red cherry, cassis and roasted coffee linger on the long finish. This wine is perhaps the best structured of the entire tasting and in my opinion one of the most underrated vintages of Penfolds Grange. 94 points
1980
Unbelievably youthful dark ruby colour. Charred beef, dried herbs, soft fig and lovage make a savoury impression. Tannins still abundant and well-structured. Finishes somewhat astringent but long with tarragon, plum, and cassis. Drink now and within the next five years. 93 points
1976
Cork taint. Penfolds current chief winemaker, Peter Gago, is considering a revolutionary alternative bottle closure in the future.
1975, Max Schubert's last vintage as chief winemaker at Penfolds.
1975
Brick red. Intense leather and garrique. No more fruit on the palate and the tannins have dried. Soy sauce and rustic savoury flavours remain. This wine is past its prime.