St. Laurent is the indigenous Austrian red wine grape for intellectuals. A small group of specialist Austrian winemakers have formed a “think tank” to share knowledge and experience with this rare variety explore ways to better communicate the identity of this unique regional star.
The chalky gravel of the Thermenregion offers ideal preconditions for St. Laurent.
The fragrance of Bing cherry, bergamot, and juniper exudes from the deep, nearly opaque ruby red wine in my glass. Bewitching, appetizing, but certainly not the glass of Pinot Noir that I had requested. The sommelier had his hand over the label as he quickly poured and scurried off before I could make any reclamation. I was able to nab that elusive sommelier and get him to show me the bottle. He was rather ashamed and explained, “St. Laurent is almost the same as Pinot Noir.” Is it really? And must one be ashamed that St. Laurent isn’t
Single-vineyard wines from Brigitte and Gerhard Pittnauer
Pinot Noir? I would have liked to have seen more pride in this variety at this award-winning Viennese restaurant at the Prater. Out of solidarity to St. Laurent, I did not exchange it for the Pinot Noir. It was delicious.
St. Laurent is a very rare grape variety that while cultivated in every wine-growing are of Austria, is nowhere the predominant grape. Vintner Gerhard Pittnauer from Gols on the east side of Lake Neusiedl says, “There are a few specialist producers scattered throughout the country that are passionately dedicated to the variety and have a long track record of producing high qualities. This high quality and the variation in styles appear to be a question not only of terroir, but of the vintner’s desire to express this. I think that the most important requirements for a good St. Laurent are talent, idealism, and passion.” The number of passionate and talented red wine vintners in Austria is growing and the vineyard area of St. Laurent has doubled since 1999.
A fussy diva
Hannes Reinisch and his two brothers cultivate quite a respectable share of the total vineyard area of St. Laurent in the Thermenregion at their Johannishof estate. He explains, “St. Laurent is very demanding. It is very sensitive during flowering and susceptible to millerandage. It ripens early and is susceptible to sunburn and botrytis. In addition to this the correct soil and the age of the vines play a significant role if you aspire to make a truly great wine.” A few of the vintners report that the variety is also prone to faults caused by volatile acids and brettanomyces. But just as a fussy diva can become the darling of a leading film director, so it is that a few talented vintners have endured the trials and tribulations on their way to discovering the passion and joy of exquisite St. Laurent. Hannes Reinisch says, “St. Laurent is one of the most fascinating and 
valuable red wine varieties because it is capable of uniting the power and spice that one would expect of Rhône with the elegance and delicacy of Burgundy. These attributes in combination with the climatic and geological preconditions in Austria result in unique, elegant and inimitable wines that demonstrate all the virtues of the variety and terroir.”
And just like a diva, St. Laurent has a rather obscure history that is woven with myths and rumours. Its name has been changed several times, possibly to give it a little more international flair. A relationship to Pinot Noir has always been suspected due to great morphological similarities. Despite this resemblance we have known for quite some time that St. Laurent possesses certain anthocyanins (responsible for colour in red wine) that are not present in the Pinot family.
Genealogy
The famous ampelographs Viala and Vermorel called this variety “Pinot St. Laurent” in their comprehensive work “Traité Général de Viticulture” (1901) and named Alsace as its likely origin. They report how the variety was exported from there to Germany where it was further spread. St. Laurent continues to be found predominantly in German-speaking Europe with just under 700 ha in Germany and 800 ha in Austria.
Despite the modern possibilities of genetic sequencing, the ancestry of St. Laurent remains unclear. Dr. Ferdinand Regner from the Federal Office and College of Wine and Horticulture Klosterneuburg explains, “An origin stemming from a Pinot crossing appears logical and explains the similarities to Pinot Noir. Despite that we find no traces of the other parent. There are genetic attributes that we have not yet found in another grape variety. If the second parent still exists, it would be easy to identify because it has left very clear traces in St. Laurent.”
A passionate history
Pepi Umathum, specializing St. Laurent clones
The Klosterneuburg Monastery plays a significant historic role in the cultivation of St. Laurent. “St. Laurenz-Traube” was planted in the experimental vineyards of the monastery when it founded the world’s first viticultural school in 1863. August Wilhelm Freiherr von Babo initiated the cultivation and propagation of this variety. The most vigorous clones were then planted in the monastery’s Jungherrn vineyard in Kahlenbergerdorf in Vienna in 1893. Continued clone selection and research is practiced today by the vintner Pepi Umathum in his Frauenkirchen vineyards near Lake Neusiedl in cooperation with the research team at Klosterneuburg. Umathum places great value on genetic diversification and the ability of vines to adapt to their environment. He says, “Sankt Laurent is the desire for something new, something different in wine, a desire that leads us back to the familiar flavours of history.”
Unique terroir
Georg Schneider and his father in their estate vineyard in Tattendorf.
Experience and observation of the variety led to prolific planting of the variety in the meagre limestone gravel of Tattendorf in 1956. The initial 5 ha of St. Laurent grew to 40 making the “Stiftsbreite” vineyard the largest contingent vineyard area planted to the variety. “The reasons for the growing vineyard area of St. Laurent in the Thermenregion are well-founded,” says vintner Georg Schneider and continues, “The dry, alluvial limestone soils of our region are perfect for the variety. The exchange of warm Pannonian climate influence from the east with the cool wind from the Viennese forest to the north provide optimal aeration after precipitation. Decisive for the unique Tattendorf character is the long ripening period in autumn when great diurnal temperature variations are experienced. St. Laurent is a variety that does not stand out with muscle and power, but with finesse, elegance, and balance.”
Stift Klosterneuburg is not only the source of many St. Laurent vines planted throughout the country, the monastery has also once again become a role model for high-quality St. Laurent wines. Dr. Wolfgang Hamm, managing director the Stift Klosterneuburg Winery declares, “I love St. Laurent because it demands our ultimate sensitivity and is capable of rewarding us with transcendental harmony.” He grounds the extraordinary quality of the St. Laurent Grosse Reserve in the rigorous selection of fruit and restriction to production in only the best red wine vintages. He expounds further, “only free run juice from fruit sourced from old vine is used for this wine. It spends four weeks on the skins, is fermented in open vats and manual punch-down of the cap is practiced. The Grosse Reserve matures for 24 months in mostly new small oak barrels.” This wine has thus far only been produced in 2000, 2003, 2006, and 2009. The superb 2011 vintage could likely bring the next.
Timeless classic or avant-garde?
Geog Stiegelmar of the Juris Estate in Gols set the standards for high-quality St. Laurent more than two decades ago when only few Austrian vintners were producing red wines of international repute. He was the first to practice malolactic fermentation in small oak barrels with the variety. The Juris St. Laurent from 1983 is elegant proof of the greatness and longevity of St. Laurent. The vintner also created the outstanding St.
Juris have produced high-quality St. Laurent for 30 years and demonstrate the varietiy's ability to age gracefully.
Georg, a blend of St. Laurent with Pinot Noir. This continues to be one of the few Austrian blends made predominantly from St. Laurent. Georg’s son Axel and his wife Herta took over the family estate in 1995 and have further developed the cultivation of St. Laurent. “This extremely difficult and fussy variety demands absolute dedication in the vineyard. To achieve truly fine, ripe tannins, we cut away half of each bunch shortly after flowering. The Goldberg vineyard in Gols has a northeast aspect and cool, dry gravel and sand soils which yield small berried St. Laurent grapes with thick skins.”
While Juris has long been established as a classic producer of St. Laurent, Brigitte and Gerhard Pittnauer, also in Gols, are considered to lead the avant-garde. Their passion for St. Laurent takes up 35% of their estate vineyard area. They have established a terroir study of this variety and produce three single vineyard examples. The Mediterranean fragrances of the Rosenberg make it reminiscent of the northern Rhône. The Altenberg has a cooler, more Pinot-like character with silky texture and wild forest berry aroma as well as a long mineral spine. The top St. Laurent is sourced from old vines that were planted in 1965. To further enhance the uniqueness of their wines, the Pittnauers practice certified organic viticulture and spontaneous fermentation. They prefer larger and less new oak, even for their top wines.
Sensuality and depth
Hannes Schuster, minimalist perfection
One also finds several dedicated vintners on the west side of Lake Neusiedl in the hills of Rust and on the slopes of the Leitha Mountains. Calcareous soils and slopes that are exposed to the warmth of the sun and cool evening breezes are the preferred locations for the fussy St. Laurent vines. Hannes Schuster vinifies his wines in multiple mini charges to allow each plot its own ideal development. “I am convinced if you allow St. Laurent to do so, it possesses the ability to transport soil and origin,” says Schuster who is certainly is not a man to blow his own horn. He doesn’t need to. His St. Laurent speaks loud and clearly for the extraordinary potential of the Zagersdorf terroir and his ability to make truly classy wines. This wine was recently awarded the best rating possible by wein.pur magazine. His St. Laurent wines are uncompromisingly mineral and express discreet sensuality and depth of character.
Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch have always played a much more prolific role in Austrian red wine cultivation. Perhaps that is why St. Laurent has been spared the trends and fashions that those varieties have gone through over the last two decades. It has always been quite an authentic regional representative. There have always been excellent examples father north in Lower Austria in areas that are more famed for their Grüner Veltliner. One such example is Schloss Gobelsburg who has recently been awarded as Falstaff champion for the variety. Winemaker Michael Moosbrugger likes to describe St. Laurent to the uninitiated as “the Austrian answer to Syrah – spicy and pepper in aroma, but paired with the elegance and finesse of its mother vine Pinot Noir.”
Due to its high demands in the vineyard and its fussiness in the cellar, the production of truly great St. Laurent is never an accident, but a question of ambition and patience. Another highly recommendable producer in Lower Austria’s Carnuntum region, Philipp Grassl says, “Making St. Laurent is always thrilling. Decisive is to harvest the fragile, assumedly early-ripening grape very late. Only then does St. Laurent achieve depth and stature with balanced freshness.” The St. Laurent Think Tank meets regularly to discuss the secrets of this variety and share ways of how to make it even better.
Christoph Wachter gives me a cheeky wink as he snaps the visor to his helmet shut. In his black, silver and royal blue flameproof race suit, he strides towards the sleek silver Lamborghini in the pit stop. Both car doors are open and Christoph motions me to the passenger side.
Christoph Wachter grew up among these vines on the family estate.
On the other side of the shiny sleek Lamborghini is a surprise waiting for me. Christoph laughs heartily, “I thought you’d like that, Julia! The only Lamborghini I am ever likely to own will be a vineyard tractor! In our adventure today we are going to race these two little go-carts!”
Before arriving at the race track, I spent the morning with Christoph Wachter in the vineyards and I thoroughly enjoyed his good-natured humour. Christoph is the winemaker at the Wachter-Wiesler winery in Deutsch-Schützen in the heart of the Eisenberg appellation. Eisenberg is definitely the most rustic wine landscape in the province of Burgenland. 500 hectares of vineyard area in the most southern part of the province are dispersed in the rugged hills that stretch from the foot of Mount Geschriebenstein in the north to the wine village of Moschendorf in the south. The countryside is sparsely populated and the mountains and hills are capped with forests. The higher vineyard slopes are rooted in slate. The lower elevations are iron-rich loam top soils over slate. Blaufränkisch is the region’s flagship grape variety and the only variety allowed for wines labeled Eisenberg DAC and Eisenberg DAC Reserve.
Christoph shows me how to operate the go-cart and gives me a few tips for the race track. I chuckle and glance back at the Lamborghini. “By the way,” says Christoph, “did you know that Ferruccio Lamborghini was the son of viticulturists? Until his retirement, when he actually did purchase a large Fattoria in Umbria, his interest was more in vineyard machinery than in making wine. The success of his line of tractors made it possible for the young Lamborghini to follow his passion for exotic cars. He admired Ferrari and owned and tinkered with several, but found the cars too noisy and uncomfortable. It was his dream to create a ‘grand tourer’, a car which combined the performance of Ferrari without sacrificing ride quality and comfort.”
“I like to compare the new wines from the Eisenberg DAC to Lamborghini cars. In the past our wines in southern Burgenland have been, shall we say, sometimes rather wild and rough. As idyllic as the landscape is, we are rather isolated here. The Eisenberg appellation regulations are lending structured unity and a more disciplined focus to a wine area dominated by quirky tiny wine farms. The average grower here has only a half a hectare of vineyards.”
A half a hectare of wines is hardly enough to nourish a family, so many vintners have other full-time professions and growing grapes is merely a sideline. The hobby vintners often planted what was easiest to grow and brought the most fruit, or they simply grew the variety they most liked to drink without paying much attention to the true potential of the terroir. “There is even an area in the south around the village of Heiligenbrunn where they grow hybrid grapes due to their resistance to phylloxera and fungal diseases. Those foxy-funky examples are neither allowed for the Eisenberg DAC nor for Austrian quality wines. These wines have been nicknamed “Uhudler” because they are rumoured to result in big dark rings around your eyes like an owl (called Uhu in the local dialect) after drinking too much.
Naturpark Weinidylle has an openair museum with old vintner huts.
“Heiligenbrunn is known for other things though. The name means ‘holy water well’,” explains Christoph. “The entire area in southern Burgenland is known for its healing waters where you find luxurious spas, wellness and golf hotels nestled in an otherwise rural landscape. At two of these hotels we have superb restaurants, Das Gogers in Neudauberg and Traube in Bad Tatzmannsdorf. There you can enjoy regional wine specialties that are difficult to find outside of our area as well as wines from all over Austria together with cuisine of international gourmet standards.”
More and more hobby vintners are leasing or selling their vineyards to local full-time winemakers. Winemakers Krutzler and Schiefer were the first to achieve national and international recognition and lend inspiration to others in the area. Farmers began sending their children off to viticultural schools and enology colleges and encouraged them to gain experience at international wine producers. Reinhold Krutzler founded the Deutsch Schützen Sixpack with five other vintners from his wine village dedicated to exploring the region’s terroir and making the best single-vineyard wines possible. The Vinum Ferreum project also has a new ambitious winemaker that is turning heads with delicious wines at knock-out prices. “There was a time when international varieties were gaining in popularity in the region, but luckily as the young vintners came back from abroad, they realized that we had something very special here. With Blaufränkisch, we have an indigenous grape variety that is well adapted to our soils and climate and is capable of expressing our unique terroir.”
The Deutsch-Schützen 6-pack form the avant garde wine producers in the Eisenberg appellation.
Harvest volumes remain low on the steep, rocky soils of the Eisenberg appellation. The best Blaufränkisch from these vineyards exhibit spicy lingonberry and blackberry fruit and abundant fine-grained tannins combined with high-acid to lend silky mouthfeel. The high iron-content of the soil is unique in Austria and a distinctive mineral expression of Blaufränkisch is achieved. This is the foundation for two Blaufränkisch appellation wines, an Eisenberg DAC and an Eisenberg DAC Reserve. There is a dark mineral spice, a wild heathery aroma and a hint of raw meatiness found in both that is not found elsewhere. The Eisenberg DAC is lighter and fruitier, while the Eisenberg DAC Reserve is fuller-bodied and more concentrated and accentuated by even more minerality. Oak maturation is required for the Reserve and it is first released in the second year after its harvest.
When asked what one pairs best with these wines, Christoph replies, “As you can imagine from our farming heritage, we have a few culinary specialties in the region. The ‘Moorochse’ is a crossing of a Galloway and Aberdeen Angus which has been bred for generations in the Pannonian wetlands. The Eisenberg Reserve is the perfect wine to pair with braised and roasted versions of this. And roasted guinea fowl is a preferred dish to serve with the lighter Eisenberg wines. My uncle’s restaurant Wachter-Wieslers Ratschen offers these specialties. And Restaurant Csencsits will make entire themed gourmet menus to pair with the Eisenberg wines.”
“I like to meet together with my colleagues and do blind tastings. We taste and track single vineyard wines from our region, but we also taste wines from all over the world. We learn a lot from our tastings and from each other. We discuss what we are doing at our wineries and in which direction we would like to take our little appellation. Sometimes we meet at my uncle’s place, but sometimes we like to go to the Il Sapore wine bar in Oberwart. We nibble on antipasti and have long conversations while listening to some good music over a glass of wine.”
One has the feeling of embarking on a new voyage in the Eisenberg appellation. Lamborghini was able to smooth the clutch provide a comfortable ride without sacrificing power and performance. The Eisenberg vintners appear to be gaining more focus and drive in their wines without losing the wild and rugged spice and minerality.
Barreling down between the vines on the Eisner slope of the Leithaberg on the back of a quad, I suddenly realize that Rudi is going to steer us right over that big slab of schist before us. I hear myself scream as we sail into the air and I could swear we are going to land smack in the middle of Lake Neusiedl.
I am in the Leithaberg appellation on the west side of Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland. Rudi Wagentristl, vintner from the village of Grosshöflein, is my host. I thought Rudi was a shy, tame sort of guy. I was wrong. He’s an animal. I should have known better. His wines are cut sharp as a knife without a gram of fat. They are so mineral it is like licking rocks. Rudi laughs, “That’s the Leithaberg terroir. It would be a shame to disguise all that minerality with jammy overripe fruit or sweet toasty oak.” My heart is still thumping as Rudi and I dismount the quad and walk over to another outcropping of slate and from right next to it, Rudi picks up one of the many pale, white-grey rocks. It is made of fossilized seashells. “This is ‘Leithakalk’.” What a curious combination: marine limestone and primary rock! Suddenly I realize that this place must have a unique geological history.
Goldberg Vineyard on the slopes of the Leitha Mountains (c)Julia Sevenich
“The Leitha Mountains are the last foothills of the Alps before you reach the Pannonian Plain. Over the course of millions of years, the mountains sank and the ancient sea emptied, leaving Lake Neusiedl ‘only’ 340 km² and still with a moderately high salt content. The 14 km long, southeast-facing mountain ridge has a core of schist and slate covered with marine limestone deposits. The Leithaberg appellation comprises around 3,000 ha of vineyards in the district of Eisenstadt, the regional capital, and 19 wine villages in the surrounding area with the exception of the city of Rust.”
Lake Neusiedl is part of a UNESCO Worl Heritage Site (c)Lukan, AWMB
Rudi has a devilish gleam in his eye as he says, “Let’s go for another spin on the quad before we meet up with Ina and Finkus Bripp for a picnic.” We ride up the mountain through the vineyards to the forest which caps the ridge. I feel the coolness on my skin on the side facing the forest as we drive along its edge. On my side facing Lake Neusiedl I feel the warmth of the sun. Northern Burgenland enjoys 2000 hours of sunshine each year making its large lake a haven for tourists. There are bike paths and walking trails all around the lake and the opportunities for various water sports are endless. The sailboats are built specially for this lake; they are wider and have a shorter keel because the lake never exceeds more than 6 feet deep. The broad rim of reeds around the lake is a natural habitat for a plethora of water birds and other animals and rare plants. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and there is an expansive wildlife preserve here. “As you can imagine, birds are our largest vineyard pests. They can swoop in and plunder an entire vineyard in a matter of minutes. Before and during harvest season, you’ll hear gunshots. Not many are from hunters, but rather from farmers protecting their crops and scaring the birds away.”
Ina has set up a nice picnic and a tasting of Leithaberg wines from several different vintners. By the time we arrive, I have begun to feel a little more at home on the quad, but I must admit that I enjoy the quiet peace once the engine is shut off. It is time to concentrate on these wines, after all. The Leithaberg DAC encompasses two wines, a white and a red. What they have in common is elegance and a purity of expression. It is structure and minerality that are sought rather than fruit-driven opulence or oaky flavours. The wines are allowed to ferment and mature longer and I taste come to believe that this has enhanced mineral finesse. Whether red or white, the wines coming from the marine-limestone dominated sites have a lemony acid structure and nearly salty minerality. The wines from slate soils seem darker, spicier, but equally taut and firm. Only grape varieties that are typical for the region are allowed. For the whites, this is Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Neuburger. The whites can be made either from a single variety or they can be a blend. The Leithaberg red wines are made from Blaufränkisch and only a small percentage of other regional varieties are allowed. The red is first permitted to enter the market two years after the harvest. I like this style of wine: never loud or flashy, but deep and elegant – never above 13.5% alcohol and always appetizing. They possess the type of classic beauty and structure that shall age well.
Ina Laubner and Rudi Wagentristl enjoying a glass of Leithaberg
Ina and Rudi have been friends since elementary school and it is fun talking with them about what they love to do in their region in their free time. Ina says, “I am a great music lover. Have you ever heard of the composer Hayden? He spent much of his life composing at the Esterhazy Castle in Eisenstad. There is a permanent exhibition there and concerts are often performed in the stunning Hayden auditorium of the castle. There are also two important outdoor music festivals within the Leithaberg appellation, the Seefestspiele in Mörbisch with the stage on the lake and the Opernfestspiele in the rock quarry in St. Margarethen.”
“The Leithaberg appellation is also lucky to have several good wine restaurants. One of the top chefs in the country, Walter Eselböck has his restaurant Taubenkobel in Schützen am Gebirge and his wife Evelyn has put together quite an impressive selection of wines – not just from Leithaberg, but from all of Austria as well as the classic wine regions of the world. Their daughter, Stephanie married a vintner, Edi Tscheppe and they have the winery and the chic little heuriger Gut Oggau . The village of Purbach has become a real gourmet mecca – Gut Purbach, Kloster am Spitz, Pauli’s Stuben, Fossil – take your pick. You are sure to enjoy it – we Leithaberg vintners certainly do!”
Anna spreads the picnic blanket over the vetch, clover and wild grass growing in the rows between the vines. It is a sunny late summer day in the Kamptal and we have a huge ice bucket full of wines to taste. I help arrange our spread of cheese, organic sausage, salads and fruit. Before her mother can stop her, little Marie quickly pops a grape in her mouth and squeals with delight.
My eyes glide over the rolling vineyard hills and mountains as Anna names them for me: Gaisberg, Ofenberg, Heiligenstein. Behind those vineyard mountains is the Kamp River which lends its name to this appellation, and on the other side of the river, yet more vineyard mountains: Seeberg, Hasel, Käferberg, and Schenkenbichl. 4,000 hectares of vineyards – those are just a few of the familiar vineyard names that one sees on the labels of Kamptal wines. “The actual boundaries of the Kamptal appellation are judicial; it comprises the legal district of Langenlois. Kamptal borders the other Danube area appellations. Kremstal is to the west, Traisental south, and to the east we have the Wagram.”
Anna takes a long cool bottle out of the ice bucket and pours each of us a taste of the Arndorfer Riesling. Marie continues to munch on grapes as her mother and I chat. “I grew up on a winery. My sisters and I were always following my mother and father around in the vineyards, the cellar, the office, the kitchen. There were always a lot of happy people around drinking wine, eating good food and enjoying the peaceful countryside. It’s a nice life and one I would like to share with my children, too.” Anna married the talented young vintner Martin Arndorfer, and moved a few kilometres from her family’s Steininger winery in Langenlois to the Arndorfer winery in Strass. The Riesling Anna has poured for me bears the “Kamptal DAC” origin. It is pale green-yellow and has pronounced aromas and flavours of white vineyard peach and apricot that are highlighted by racy, citrusy acid and cool minerals reminiscent of a mountain stream pebbles linger on the finish.
“Kamptal DAC” and “Kamptal DAC Reserve” were established in 2008 as controlled labels of geographic origin. Like AOC in France or DOC/DOCG in Italy, Austria’s DAC always follows the name of the appellation. The Kamptal DAC and the Kamptal DAC Reserve are always single-varietal wines from either Riesling or Grüner Veltliner. To pass the strict tasting inspections the wines must exhibit pure and clearly defined varietal character. No new oak or botrytis notes are allowed for the Kamptal DAC, but a hint of both are allowed for the more powerful, full-bodied Kamptal DAC Reserve.
Heiligenstein, one of the Grand Cru or "Erste Lage" for Austrian Riesling (c) Himmel, AWMB
“Grüner Veltliner and Riesling have been established as the most important grape varieties in Kamptal for generations. They quite simply find an ideal terroir here and make up more than half of the Kamptal vineyard area.” The Heiligenstein is one of the appellation’s most famous sites. Directly translated, Heiligenstein means “holy stone”, but its historic name was Höllenstein, probably because the meagre sandstone with volcanic components dating back to the Palaeozoic era 270 million years ago, can get as “hot as hell” in summer. Luckily large forested areas and open exposure to cool air masses coming from the north ensure large diurnal temperature differences. The Heiligenstein vineyard is particularly favoured for Riesling and some of Austria’s very best examples come from this site.
As you travel further south and closer to the Danube River, the soils change. Loess and loam terraces provide ideal conditions for Grüner Veltliner. Marie is now sitting comfortably on my lap as Anna pours me a glass of Grüner Veltliner Kamptal DAC Reserve. It is pale medium yellow, full-bodied and generous, but with firm acid structure. Exotic fruit reminiscent of mango and grapefruit mingle with pepper, celery and even a hint of lentils. The Kamptal DAC Grüner Veltliner is generous and full-bodied, but with good acid structure and plenty of peppery spice.
This logo is found on bottles of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from sites that are classified as "Erste Lage" - the very best vineyards of the Danube wine regions.
In 1992 the Association of Traditional Wineries Austria was founded with the ambitious goal of achieving a vineyard classification in the Danube area. The creation of region of origin labelling in the form of DACs was the foundation for the further development of aprime single vineyard concept. It was a historical moment for the association when after 20 years of research and discussion, the members presented 52 vineyards which were classified as ‘Erste Lage’ (grand cru). This is the beginning of a classification process that is expected to last for at least another 20 to 30 years.
“Certainly Riesling and Grüner Veltliner are our flagship wines in Kamptal, but we have other varieties and specialties, too. You can find several other varieties like Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc and there are a couple vineyards that are predestined for early-ripening red wine varieties like Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir. My family, the Steiningers have specialized in the production of sparkling wines and Bründlmayer and Schloss Gobelsburg also make superb alternatives to Champagne.” Not only does the Kamptal offer much diversity, 10% of Austria’s vineyard area is now organically cultivated and two of Austria’s leading vintners and champions of the organic movement are located in Kamptal: Fred Loimer and Hannes Hirsch.
Many of the Kamptal wineries, like the historic cultural gem Schloss Gobelsburg, welcome visitors by appointment on weekdays.
Wine culture and tourism play an important role in the Kamptal region. Langenlois is the largest community and has a superb tourist information office called Ursin Haus that has bicycle rental and will help you find accommodations. The Ursin Haus also serves as a regional wine shop where you can taste wines from all over the region before you purchase and also attend seminars and events. Restaurant Schwillinsky has the best wine list in the appellation and is located in the picturesque heart of Langenlois. Weinkontraste is another recommendable regional wine shop in Strass that is very generous with information and tourism assistance in the region.
The innovative little winery that Anna grew up on has grown to a sizeable venture for Austria at 30 hectares. The Steiningers also initiated quite an exciting wine experience centre that has become a major attraction for the region. The Loisium is a futuristic architectural monument to wine designed by the New York architect Steven Holl. Visitors begin with a walk through the vineyard and are led through a 1 km long network of wine experiences. The cellar of the Steininger winery is integrated in the facility and one follows in the steps of the winemaker as he guides the grapes from the vineyard to the bottle. The Loisium now includes a designer hotel and restaurant called the Vineyard, which has a very good selection of regional wines by the bottle and by the glass.
“Producing wine is a wonderful lifestyle,” exclaims Anna. “It is for me and I think for most of the vintners here in Kamptal. Every village has a couple of winery-operated taverns where you can experience the typical country ‘Gemütlichkeit’ of the Kamptal. These are the places that locals go and they have the function and atmosphere of our second living rooms.”
“The valley is narrow and the rocky terraces are incredibly steep where the Kremstal appellation borders the Wachau – there is nearly no top soil at all.” I listen attentively as Michael Malat pulls a tight wetsuit over muscular thighs and zips it tautly over his chest.
Stift Göttweig (c) Himmel, AWMB
“In the side valley cut by the Krems River you find Senftenberg and the same – steep and rocky conditions. The vines there are like old leathery alpine climbers that always find the best way to hold themselves tight on the mountain face.” Michael’s father Gerald Malat, a visionary vintner and avid sportsman, accelerates the speed boat and we head eastwards on the Danube River. The valley begins to widen. On the left is the famous wine and art city of Krems nestled into the mountainside and across the river to the south, high on a plateau is the splendid Stift Göttweig the Benedictine monastery that appears to benevolently guard the 2,600 hectares of vineyards in the Kremstal appellation. Michael points to the right and says, “Our vineyards are among those on the south side of the river. Between the river and Stift Göttweig there is a little pocket of gravel and loam which offers ideal conditions for elegant, cool climate red wines, but the greater part of the vineyards are predestined for superb white wines from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Like most of our appellation we have lots of primary rock. But the river valley opens here and there are also vineyard plots with loess topsoil, decomposed rock transported by the wind over the ages.” I understand why Michael wanted to give me an overview of the Kremstal terroir here from the boat. As we travel farther east, the valley on the north side of the river also opens and the hillsides and mountains are more exposed to the warm air masses coming from the southeast. Michael gives me the binoculars as he points out the more powerful loess terraces over ancient primary rock in the wine villages of Gedersdorf and Rohrendorf. “The soil and the microclimate there bring richer, fuller wines. It is really interesting how, with a little experience, you can really learn to recognize the subtle, but consistent differences that you taste in our individual vineyards. The ‘Traditionsweingüter’ vintners’ association has been doing much research and observation over the past years and have classified the very best vineyards that can be seen as our Grand Cru as ‘Erste Lage’ and other prime vineyards (similar to Premier Cru) as ‘klassifizierte Lage’.”
We’ve reached a calmer part of the river and Michael sits on the back ramp of the boat and spreads a little liquid soap to lubricate the tight foot holds of the water ski. He slips both feet into his slalom ski, takes the rope and eases himself into the cool water. Michael has quite an impressive physique – tall, broad shoulders, bulging biceps, quads, nice abs – need I continue? This can’t just come from canopy management and he can’t be moving many barrels because the Kremstal DAC wines are not oaked. His father seems to be reading my thoughts, “Michael was the national water ski champion in the amateur category and he does a lot of other sports, too.” Michael gives the thumbs up and as Gerald hits the gas, my heart beats faster. Michael pops out of the water with his blonde tresses flying in the wind. He lays into the edge of his ski, spraying a glistening rooster’s tail against the blue sky behind him.
I keep an attentive eye on Michael while Gerald drives the boat and continues the conversation where Michael left off. “The Kremstal DAC and Kremstal Reserve DAC were established in 2007. It has helped define the authentic Kremstal expression of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. In the past a few vintners would allow a little noble rot in their dry wines. This may lend a little attractive spice to wines in their youth, but this is at the price of structure, longevity and minerality. No oak or botrytis influence is allowed in Kremstal DAC and Kremstal DAC Reserve and that is a very good thing. The wines always exhibit very pure varietal character. The Kremstal DAC wines are crisp, aromatic, medium light in body, and always under 13% alcohol. The reserve wines are sourced from the most exceptional vineyard plots and are intense with a more muscular structure and long mineral finish. Both the Grüner Veltliner and Riesling Kremstal Reserve DAC can mature gracefully in the bottle for years.”
After waterskiing, Michael and I go for a stroll in Krems as he tells me about the lifestyle here. Krems was originally an important shipping and trading hub on the Danube River. Due to its affluence it was able to sustain a thriving art scene. There are numerous galleries and museums making up a permanent “Kunstmeile” or “Art Mile” centered around the Ernst Krenek Forum and the Caricature Museum. “When friends come to visit and I take them to our museums, I also like to take them to ARTE, it is a combination of an art gallery and wine bar. In the evening, Wein & So is the hopping place to go for wine lovers.”
One place that visitors to Kremstal certainly shouldn’t miss is the Weinsinn Sandgrube 13. The visitor’s center of the exemplary cooperative, Winzer Krems, offers tours for experiencing and discovering wine in a very fun and entertaining way. The city of Krems also has its own historic winery, Weingut Stadt Krems, which also has a recommendable shop and tastings. Both of these wine producers offer exceptional wines at very competitive prices.
We settle into the Bistro de la Tour for a casual dinner and a sampling of local wines. Michael wants to make sure I get a chance to try wines from two of Austria’s leading organic producers. “Ilse Maier event wrote a great book about the production of organic wines and her Grüner Veltliner and Riesling from the Geyerhof winery really do a good job of demonstrating the poised elegance from the terroir on ‘our’ south side of the river. Niki Moser converted the family estate Sepp Moser in Rohrendorf to biodynamic viticulture and you’ve just got to try his Grüner Veltliner from the loess soils of the Breiten Rain vineyard.” To exemplify the steep primary rock, Michael has chosen the Riesling Kremser Weinzierlberg from the Türk winery. It has plenty of pure peach and apricot fruit, but it is the delineated mineral structure that really fascinates me.
“I love living in the Krems Valley. There are plenty of opportunities for athletic adventures in the outdoors – we have rivers and we have forests and mountains. The Austrian Wine Academy has a branch here that offers seminars for wine lovers and professionals. We have great concerts and wine related events throughout the year. We’ve got a thriving art scene. And we have plenty of chances to talk about all these great things with friends at our local wine taverns, wine bars and gourmet restaurants. You won’t go thirsty or hungry in Kremstal!”
For the past 24 years, the Salon of Austrian Wine has been the official annual national championship. Around 7,000 wines are tasted in the provincial premier tastings of Lower Austria, Burgenland, Styria and Vienna. From these 7,000 wines, the provincial winners go on to the Salon championship. Around 200 to 220 of these wines make it into one of the 16 categories in the Salon of Austrian Wine.
Most of Austria’s wineries are quite small and because the country’s most successful producers do not need to enter their limited quantities of wine in the national championship, a special category of recognition has been created called the “Auserwählte” – loosely translated as “special select”. National journalists and sommeliers are asked to nominate 40 wines for this category. From these 40 wines, the 10 most frequently nominated appear in the Salon as “Auserwählte”.
A Salon book is published each year and a Salon tasting goes on tour through the country. This tasting has become a wonderful opportunity for consumers to discover quality wines from little-known producers. Many of the wines can be purchased directly from the producer and also offer wine enthusiasts an excellent quality for price. For small unknown vintners, it has often served as a launching pad into yet higher spheres of recognition.
This year, the Austrian wine marketing has sent wine journalists two Salon Champion wines with the request to publish tasting notes online. The first wine I tasted was lovely – a prime example of its variety, aromatic, well-balanced, and a wine that would be a lot of fun to pair and enjoy with food. The second wine was … er… well, it is the reason I have been procrastinating. I have been procrastinating because I disliked it. In fact, I found it unbalanced and crude. Obviously a lot of people are in disagreement with me about this wine because it has had to make it through at least two tasting commissions to make it into the Salon. All of the tasters for the Salon have received special tasting training sponsored by the Austrian Wine Marketing. I am qualified with the WSET diploma as a taster, am experienced, and have even written a book on wine tasting for which I have done considerable research. Despite this, there always remains an element of subjectivity in wine tasting. It is my job to be as objective as possible and give you, the reader, a realistic idea of how a wine tastes, when it is best drunk and for which occasion or with which foods it is best enjoyed. The following descriptions are intended to do just that.
The winegrowers in the volcanic soils of Klöch have come up with a special label for their Traminer - but don't let that put you off: the wines are lovely.
Salon Champion 2011 Aromatic Varieties
2010 Gelber Traminer Röhrl, Weingut Griessauf-Nell
The Gelber Traminer is a special variation of the Gewürztraminer and this particular example comes from the Röhrl vineyard in Südoststeiermark (Southeast Styria). Traminer varieties are a specialty in the micro-climate and volcanic soils surrounding the village of Klöch. Wine snobs will sometimes rumple their nose at Traminer, accusing the variety of being loud and clumsy. This is not so with this wine. Its bouquet is softly aromatic instead of penetrating and releases a fragrance of rose petals, litchi, and vineyard peach. The wine is off-dry, alcohol content moderate, and the residual sweetness is balanced by surprisingly refreshing acidity for the variety. The floral components are by no means cloying and mingle elegantly with citrus-laced litchi in a medium-full body and medium long finish. This very well-balanced wine pairs nicely with a goose liver and bitter chocolate praline or with a cold lettuce and prawn spring roll with a peanut and cilantro dip. This Gelber Traminer is lovely to drink now and should continue to offer abundant drinking pleasure over the next three to five years. It is sold in Austria for around € 12.50.
This wine makes a refreshing cocktail with 50% sparkling mineral water, a slice a cucumber and lemon, and a sprig of peppermint.
Salon Champion 2011 Spätlese/Auslese
2010 Chardonnay, Weingut Handler
This pale yellow Chardonnay has a nose reminiscent of canned pineapple and pear. It is both sweet (33 g/l rs) and sour in the mouth, simple, medium-bodied, and rustic. The tart and sweet finish is quite short. I thought this wine might improve with food and wanting to give it a chance, I tried it with a couple things that I thought might work. On its own, the best combination with this wine was a pork chop with apple sauce – spicy Asian-inspired dishes didn’t work. I then tried this wine as a “G’spritzter”, 50/50 with sparkling mineral water. Better. Then I tried it as a G’spritzter with a slice of cucumber and lemon and a sprig of mint. This was absolutely lovely! This is a simple wine that is sold for only € 5.-. It won’t improve with age, so drink it now or never.
The Domäne Wachau has often been called the world’s best wine cooperative. Since taking over management of Domäne Wachau, Roman Horvath MW and oenologist Heinz Frischengruber have not only put together a young and competent team, they have managed to integrate all of the member growers into their mission of producing some of Austria’s very finest white wines. This is important for the region because with 440 hectares of vineyards they cultivate 30% of the prestigious Wachau vineyard area and play a significant role in protecting a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site.
In addition to caring for a protected landscape, the Domäne Wachau is also in possession of an exquisite regional landmark, the Baroque “Kellerschlössel” or “Cellar Palace”. The palace originally served as an entertainment residence for the Dürnstein abbot, Hieronymus Übelbacher. The Abbot had the inner walls adorned with satirical etchings, as well as a copy of his doctoral thesis on the Last Supper. On another wall is a poem with his last will and testament stating that he did not want to be buried after he died. He said that would be a shame because he drank so much good wine in his life – he would prefer to be distilled! The Cellar Palace has hosted many gatherings and celebrations over the course of history. The Foreign Minister Leopold Figl was a great fan of the wines of Wachau and used the Cellar Palace frequently for meetings during negotiations for the Federal Treaty after WWII.
I recently had a chance to personally experience the hospitality of the Domäne Wachau. Dear friends were visiting from Willamette Valley, Oregon and I was looking for something special to do with them when Roman Horvath called. I conduct English PR and communication workshops for the Domäne Wachau staff and we needed to schedule the next one. When Roman heard I had visitors, he said, “Let’s have a barbecue party at the Cellar Palace! Bring Nancy and Steve along and we can give them a tour of the Domäne Wachau and we can practice our English communication skills! After the tour, we’ll do a little tasting and explain the Wachau wine classifications Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd. Then we’ll have the barbecue party.” What a perfect idea. Nancy and Steve lived in Austria for a short time years ago before the wine scandal and Austria’s subsequent climb to be among the world’s elite wine producing countries. And the two of them are always keen for a party.
While working out the details for the staff workshop with Kerstin Klamm, the export manager at Domäne Wachau, I told her that Nancy, Steve, and I would be contributing a bit of Americana to the barbecue. We would bring the dessert and provide some entertainment.
When we arrived, the Domäne Wachau team divided into three groups and each took one of us “Amis” with them. The tour and the tasting went fabulously, except that I think my very brash and irreverent friend Nancy may have taught her group some words they probably shouldn’t use! The barbecue was delicious – salad with sautéed wild chantrelles that Kerstin had found in the Wachau forest, grilled tomatoes with local fresh goat cheese, roasted rosemary potatoes and prime rib. Then came our American desserts! Rootbeer floats and brownies. Europeans do not typically know the American soft drink flavoured with the sassafrass root and they found the taste very strange indeed! Michael Linke, the wine shop manager, was the only one who really seemed to find any enjoyment with that. Thank goodness our brownies – complete with little fireworks fountains – were more successful.
For entertainment we played a few American picnic games. Franz Hofbauer (marketing and sales) and Veronica Ambrosz (sales director Vienna) turned out to be unbeatable in the three-legged-three-headed race. Melanie Topp (events) was a high-scoring talent with the “hang it on the grape vine” ball game.
We had a fantastic time there and I can truly recommend a visit to Domäne Wachau when wine touring in Austria. They have several different venues for different sizes and kinds of events. There is tasting room in the atrium above the wine shop as well as in the house distillery. A modernly equipped seminar room is also available. A tour of the famous Wachau vineyards by ship is possible as is a guided hike on the steep vineyard terraces. The Cellar Palace would be a perfect setting for a fun, yet elegant wedding in the vineyards. I’ve watched the team as they have built up the competence of Domäne Wachau, not just as a top wine producer, but as a top tourist destination and ambassador for Austrian wine and culture.
My knuckles are white as I grip the handlebars tight and I am hanging my rear end out behind the bike seat to keep my weight back as far as possible as I hop from one stone-walled vineyard terrace down to the next. Thank goodness this is not the Wachau – the terraces are a little wider here in the Traisental!
Andreas Holzer, local vintner and my mountain bike guide in Traisental, stops to give me a chance to catch up with him. There is a delicate aroma of apple in the air and I look up to see an apple tree, its ripening fruit blushing in the late afternoon sun. Andreas points to vines around us and says, “In no other Austrian wine-growing area does Grüner Veltliner represent such a large proportion of territory. It makes up 63% of the Traisental vineyards. We are now standing in the Alte Setzen Vineyard from Markus Huber. He makes one of the region’s – no, one of the world’s – top Grüner Veltliners every year and has done much to raise the region’s profile.”
Really? Who in the world knows about Traisental? And why are the wines here so good and so inexpensive?
Pedalling through the Traisental terrain, I notice the landscape so typical for the wine growing areas along the Danube River west of Vienna. Many of the vineyards are terraced on hillsides, usually not quite as steep as the Wachau and thus the terraces are broader with several rows. Andreas points out the loess, decomposed material that has been deposited by the wind. “See these huge walls of loess on the side of the road? Sometimes it is several meters deep. But look ahead, do you see that vineyard? There is nearly no loess at all; the conglomerate base is completely exposed.” The Danube and Traisen Rivers function as climate regulators ensuring the circulation of warm air masses coming in from the Pannonian Plains to the east and the cold air from the deep forest district to the north. These are the perfect conditions for white wine varieties, in particular Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. It is quieter here and there is far less tourism than along other parts of the Danube, lending the area a peaceful and wholesome charm.
Wine is a cultural product with an identity that is rooted in climate, soil, and topography. Despite this, the Traisental appellation corresponds to a political border rather than to geological and meteorological attributes. The Traisental DAC corresponds exactly with the boundaries of the “Gerichtsbezirk St. Pölten Nord”. With a beginning metamorphosis of Austrian wine laws evolving from categories based on grape sugar content to wine laws based on geographical origins, one hopes that Austrian wine will eventually throw those political borders overboard. Andreas admits as much when he says, “Our soils are predominantly limestone conglomerate with loess top soil – perfect for Grüner Veltliner. The sites with little or no loess and less limestone are ideal for Riesling. I agree that the part of the Kremstal DAC that is south of the Danube River has more in common with Traisental than the part of the Kremstal to the north!” The DAC idea is based on establishing a geographic region of origin and identity that can be easily recognized by international consumers as a brand. With only 800 hectares of vineyards, Traisental remains a hidden secret. Despite this, in its short existence since 2006, the Traisental DAC is indeed contributing positively to the tiny region’s wine identity.
Grapes and wine have historically been one of the products of mixed agricultural farms in Traisental, and in all of eastern Austria for that matter. Only in the last two generations has one begun to see a shift to specialist production. The vineyard holding of a winery is still only two hectares. Despite their small size, Traisental wine producers have often had several different grape varieties and produce up to 30 different wines each vintage. The reason for this was to satisfy the demands of customers at the farm’s heuriger (wine tavern) where a significant portion of a farm’s products have traditionally been sold and consumed. This fractured structure has been both the charm and the curse of Traisental.
The Traisental DAC, established in 2006, recognizes Riesling and Grüner Veltliner as the best of what the Traisental has to offer. Wines from this geographic origin are single varietal wines that can be made from either variety and bottled either as “Classic” or as “Reserve”. No flavours of new oak or botrytis notes are allowed in either style. The “Classic” must show clear, crisp varietal character and have a minimum of 12% alcohol. The “Reserve” is harvested later and is more powerful and mineral with a minimum of 13% alcohol. This clearly defined concept is encouraging producers to concentrate on what is best suited to the region and international red wine varieties and other misfits are slowly being abandoned to fulfil the domestic demand for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling under the DAC labels.
If you take a look at a topographical and metrological map of Austria’s wine regions, one can see that the wine growing areas along the Danube from Krems to the borders of Vienna exhibit strong similarities. The top quality wines from Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram are all from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Crystal clear varietal character as a voice, an amplifier, for terroir is sought. The use of new oak or inclusion of botrytized grapes to enhance flavour is frowned upon as short-term cosmetic that disguise terroir and do not contribute to longevity.
"Berg" vineyard at the (c)Markus Huber Winery
Andreas and I arrive at our destination the Donau Restaurant in Traismauer. This is a favourite of him and his young vintner colleagues because it is located directly on the river and has a large, pleasant outdoor eating area and a perfect room indoors for seminars, tastings and wine presentations. While dining on local fish specialties, Andreas presents several wines from various Traisental wineries. “For a long time, the only vintner that exported and was known outside of Traisental was Ludwig Neumayr. He can really be considered the father of high quality wines of international format in our region. But then along came Markus Huber, a very young vintner, and he has shown us all what can be done if you make no compromises and concentrate on the great terroir that we have in Traisental. He has really become a source of inspiration for the new generation of vintners here.”
Ludwig Neumayr and Markus Huber are both members of the vintner association Traditionsweingüter. The association includes many of the elite wineries of the winegrowing regions Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram. For two decades, they have been working on a classification of vineyards based on long-term performance of these regions’ wines. The top 52 vineyards are called “Erste Lage”. The classification system does not yet hold any legal status nor has it been analyzed and approved by an official third party. Despite this, it does show visionary qualities. Austrian wines have been classified in the past by their grape sugar must content instead of origin. The DAC system is just in its early stages and will still evolve. Seen not only from a geological and meteorological standpoint, but culturally and from international marketing view, it would make sense to join these four political districts into one wine appellation and within that appellation make differentiations according to single vineyards.
Hedgehog cleaning the Donau Restaurant terrace at dusk (c)julia7ich
Fisher at sunset in Traisental (c)Julia7ich
As the sun sets we see a fisherman silhouetted against the river and a small hedgehog meanders over the terrace nibbling crumbs under the tables. I enjoy the peaceful idyll after a day of rock hopping on my bike through the Traisental. This secret place off the beaten track is home to untouched wine gems at very drinkable prices!
Finkus Bripp looks terrified and is securing his camera equipment. I am driving. “Last night you were talking about gently rolling vineyards, lush forests, and the leisurely pace of life in Mittelburgenland – the land of Blaufränkisch,” he says. “Why are we driving so fast?” We are trying to keep up with Clemens Reisner, one of the young new winemaking stars of the region. He is driving the Hans Igler Estate delivery van and we are following him to the Sonnengolf resort for a round of golf and an interview.
After warming up a bit on the driving range, Clemens and I stroll towards the first of 9 holes to tee off. A warm, dry breeze sweeps gently over the course and I note that it is coming in from the east. Clemens is able to adjust his swing accordingly. I am not a skilled golfer. “Climates that are good for vines are always climates where people feel comfortable, too. Our humidity and temperatures are regulated somewhat by Lake Neusiedl to the north, but we have less danger of Botrytis and birds than the regions closer to the lake! We are protected here by the Ödenburger Mountains to the north, Günser Mountains in the south, and the hills of the Bucklige Welt to the west. Our climate is warmer and drier here than in northern Burgenland and it is more strongly influenced by the warm Pannonian air masses reaching in from Hungary to the east.”
The entire province of Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WW I. This area is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. Although the region escaped communism, it did not really begin to economically recover from the two World Wars until the 1980s. “After the wine scandal of 1986, Austria’s wine export completely collapsed. My grandfather, Hannes Igler, and other vintners in the area saw it as a chance to successfully market wines that were more authentic to their region. Mittelburgenland is predestined for red wine, but the fashion before the wine scandal was for off-dry and semi-sweet white wines.”
Hannes Igler truly was one of the doyens of the region. He was well-travelled in the great red wine regions of the world and admired Bordeaux greatly. Although he was one of the first in Austria to plant international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and to mature his wines in small new oak barrels. The success of the Igler “Volcano”, a blend of Blaufränkisch with international varieties, put Mittelburgenland on the map as an emerging red wine region in the 1990s. Other vintners in the region like Weninger and Gsellmann soon joined him in the same league. Initially it was the internationally styled blends that enjoyed favoured preference from domestic critics and consumers. Luckily the vintners of Mittelburgenland were convinced of the potential of their Blaufränkisch and didn’t grub it up in favour of more fashionable varieties.
Now past the fifth hole and confidently playing quite a good game, Clemens expresses a little criticism for his region. “We weren’t completely immune to the fashions of the time, though. By the end of the 1990s and the beginning of this millennium, Mittelburgenland vintners were often leaving their grapes to hang much too long and the wines often displayed over-ripe, rather jammy fruit and unfortunately often too much volatile acidity. To make matters worse, many exhibited a heavy and clumsy hand with oak.”
It was indeed an awkward time, but this time it was not just the leading wineries of the region that spurred change. After Austria joined the EU, the region qualified for subsidies for modernization of vinification facilities and rationalization of vineyards. The two major cooperatives in Burgenland were also under excellent management with highly qualified winemakers. The cooperatives implemented viticultural improvements, rigorous yield restrictions and replanting of vineyards to varieties more suited to the climate and soil. 55% of the vineyard area is now planted to Blaufränkisch. The two Mittelburgenland cooperatives, Winzerkeller Neckenmarkt and Vereinte Winzer Blaufränkischland have joined the ranks of wine producers in the region that produce consistently good quality. Regional pride grew and as wines became increasingly authentic they were applauded by the international press.
Clemens concentrates deeply at the tee for the 9th hole. The air is still. He swings smooth and true and the ball sails. It lands on the green just a little over one and a half metres from the hole. Clemens smiles broadly and we continue our conversation as we walk towards the green. “I think the turning point is well demonstrated by the establishment of the Mittelburgenland DAC in 2005. It was clear to everybody on the Interprofessional Regional Committee that Blaufränkisch was not only the most suitable variety for our climate and soil. By that time we had also tracked two decades of single-vineyard examples of Blaufränkisch not only in Mittelburgenland, but throughout the province. The variety’s ability to express a unique terroir is well-proven and this point of difference is our way into the future.”
The loam and clay soils of Mittelburgenland are cool and have the capacity to store just enough water and moisture for the vines in long dry summers. Evening temperatures drop thanks to the surrounding forests ensuring that good acid structure is retained. Mittelburgenland Classic DAC is 100% Blaufränkisch, 100% from Mittelburgenland that has been matured in stainless steel or used barrels and casks that do not impart new oak flavours. Mittelburgenland Reserve DAC is also 100% Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, but may be matured in new oak if the vintner desires. The Classic may have up to 13% vol. alcohol while 13% is the minimum for the Reserve. After passing quality inspection for Qualitätswein aus Österreich (quality wine from Austria), both styles must also pass a tasting commission to determine that they fit the desired sensory profile.
Clemens putts his ball straight into the hole. The 9th hole with only two strokes – I’m impressed! To celebrate our good game and a fun video shoot, we go to the region’s most reputed restaurant, Horvath. The restaurant is a modernized interpretation of a classic Austrian Gasthaus. We are hungry, so order the 4-course gourmet lunch. Clemens leads us through a tasting of typical wines from the region. Although Blaufränkisch is the main variety and the only variety allowed for the (DAC) appellation wines, Mittelburgenland can boast impressive diversity. Dry white wines from Welschriesling and Chardonnay are followed by Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
When asked about tourism in the region, Clemens says, “Well, it is not has heavily trafficked as the areas near Lake Neusiedl, of course. It is quieter here – night life is pretty quiet and I think that is what our visitors seek. There are plenty of athletic opportunities here from hiking, walking, and biking to golf. Mittelburgenland is also appreciated for its thermal waters and we have several excellent spas, like at Sonnengolf today. The spa hotels are superb and all of them have well-stocked selections of wines from Mittelburgenland!”
As we get into the car to depart for our next adventure, Finkus definitely appears less tense than in the early morning. He says, “Do you ever notice how wines and people reflect their surroundings? Mittelburgenland is open-hearted and approachable, but man do those wines have good concentration and persistence!”
Weinviertel DAC
“There is a rather endearing curse in the German language. When you are frustrated with someone and want to send them to the end of the world, you tell them to go ‘where the pepper grows’,” laughs Marion Ebner-Ebenauer. “I used to think that meant somewhere far away and isolated like Africa, Madagascar, or the most rural parts of the Weinviertel. But now with the international success of our peppery Grüner Veltliner under the geographic label of origin ‘Weinviertel DAC’, the place where ‘the pepper grows’ has gained a pleasant second meaning.”
Marion is taking me on a tour of the Weinviertel in her vintage VW beetle and I am impressed that this old red convertible successfully climbs each vineyard slope without a sputter! We are just past the borders of Vienna touring vineyards of Langenzersdorf, Bisamberg und Hagenbrunn. We refresh ourselves along the way with typical heuriger fare of various salads and bread with different delicious spreads as well as the region’s famous Marchfeld asparagus. The Weinviertel is the bread basket of Austria. Most of the country’s grains are grown here and it is also a primary source of fresh vegetables for the nation’s capitol city. Austria’s heuriger culture was born when a sanction passed by Emperor Franz-Josef II in 1784 allowed farmers to sell their produce and products directly to consumers and this culture of rustic wine taverns continues to thrive.
“The biggest difference between now and then is that farmers have begun to specialize. This is particularly true of grape growers. As specialization has increased, so also has the quality of our region’s wines.” explains the young vintner. Marion slips on her red leather driving gloves, a chic little necessity for manoeuvring without power steering. She steps on the gas and we head to our last stop before leaving the southern Weinviertel.
At the restaurant of the Imperial Festival Palace Hof, we are served a wine labelled Weinviertel DAC, which always designates peppery wines from 100% Grüner Veltliner with crisp fruit, medium body and refreshing acidity. Marion explains, “The more powerful, full-bodied Grüner Veltliners are labelled Weinviertel Reserve DAC. These wines were harvested later and have more opulent fruit and black pepper aromas.” Our surroundings are impressive: the Imperial Festival Palace Hof is Austria’s largest rural palace complex. The palace, gardens and farm manor have recently been restored to their former splendour and intended purpose as a venue for magnificent celebrations. The experience tours and festivals offered here are highly recommendable here for they allow would-be time-travellers the opportunity to explore the world of Prince Eugene and Empress Maria Theresa in a manner that is fascinating, exciting, and far more real than any museum.
As we cruise towards the north, ever further from Vienna, wide spaces, big skies and rolling hills open before us. The countryside becomes much more sparsely populated. One wonders what inspired this young, cosmopolitan woman to move from the exciting bustle of the Austrian capital to this lonely, rural place. “I met my husband just after we each finished our wine studies. I travelled a lot while working as a negociant. After we married, we decided to take over his family’s winery in Poysdorf. I truly appreciate the peace and unspoiled authenticity of this region. The people here are friendly, yet quiet, and when they do speak they certainly have very well-defined opinions! The Weinviertel Grüner Veltliner reflects the character of the people here: vibrant, harmonious, and distinctly peppery.”
We drive through romantic cellar alleys that typify the wine villages of the Weinviertel. Farmers used to make their wines in cellars dug deep and long into the loess slopes just steps away from their vines. Rows of rustic, colourfully painted little wooden doors now serve as places to store vineyard equipment and machinery. Professional vintners have long moved to more spacious and modern equipped quarters. A few of the cellars have been refurbished into quaint seasonal heuriger, that open during the harvest, when sturm – musty wine in its first stages of fermentation is served to thirsty tourists and vineyard labourers sharing vintage news and gossip.
“I’m not the only one who adores the Weinviertel,” exclaims Marion. “People from all over the world come here seeking rejuvenation and refuge from their busy lives. They visit the healing thermal waters of Laa an der Thaya and the spa hotels and vintner B&Bs in wine villages throughout the region. Restaurants with good regional wine lists, Buchingers Gasthaus zur Alte Schule or Zum Grünen Baum are much appreciated. My favourite wine bar is Wino in Poysdorf. ”
On all of our visits to eateries, whether simple rustic heuriger, country inn or elegant spa hotel restaurant, I am pleasantly surprised by the diversity of regional wines offered. “Half of Austria’s – no, half of the world’s Grüner Veltliner grows in the loess soils of the Weinviertel, but we have other grape varieties as well. Riesling also loves the primary rock and Pinot Blanc adores our limestone. Most of the base wine for Austria’s sparkling wine brands are sourced from our region’s crisp, refreshing Welschriesling. Everyone makes at least a few bottles of charming, fruity red from regional varieties and we even have a couple vintners specialized in sweet wines like Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein.”
This time, as we return to the car, it doesn’t start, but with Marion’s practical forethought, it is pointed downhill and we have an easy jump-start and coast stylishly into the historic wine city of Retz. Retz is famed for its 20 km labyrinth of wine cellars beneath the city. Fascinating tours of the vaults and wine tastings are offered daily.
The Weinviertel, Austria’s dreamy giant is peppered with many opportunities for rejuvenation in an unspoiled rural landscape. Simplicity and unspoiled authenticity make the Weinviertel a very luxurious place to escape modern day hectic and “go where the pepper grows”.