My first contact with German wine was with Blue Nun Liebfraumilch during my youth in the USA. It was a pleasant way to wean myself from soft drinks into the fascinating world of wine. Since then my tastes have evolved and demands on quality have increased – just as has German wine. Germany has long discarded its reputation for shallow sweetish wines and now enjoys increasing international demand for its complex and age worthy wines. (Blogeintrag unten auf Deutsch)

Around 200 elite German vintners belong to the VDP

The Rheingau wine region in Germany established the ERSTES GEWÄCHS RHEINGAU in 1999. The Verband Deutscher Qualitäts- und Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) established the GROSSES GEWÄCHS (GG) classification for other German wine regions in 2001. Both of theses classifications are reserved for dry wines from specific, superb vineyards and their establishment documented the movement towards wines with more structure and expression of terroir. It also signalled the beginning of the quality revolution that has taken place with German wine over the past 10 years. The work of the VDP continues. Not only does the association continue to ensure the highest standards of quality, they are also striving to make German wine labels as easy to understand as the wines are to enjoy.

A complete report of my assessment will appear in German in the next issue of GENUSS wein.pur magazine. I will be posting a few first impressions next week during the 2011 Premier Tastings of GROSSES GEWÄCHS and ERSTES GEWÄCHS RHEINGAU on

Symbol for Germany's top classified vineyards

Facebook, twitter, Google+, and here on my blog. I’ll be pleased if you join me and I certainly welcome dialogue.

Nächste Woche bin ich im Auftrag von genuss.magazin & wein.pur bei der VORPREMIERE GROSSES GEWÄCHS 2011 in Wiesbaden. Der VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter) lädt namhafte internationale Journalisten und Importeure ein um über 200 deutsche Spitzenweine zu verkosten noch bevor sie auf den Markt kommen.

Ich freue mich sehr auf diese Einladung! Meine erste Berührung mit deutschem Wein während meiner Jugend in den USA war Blue Nun Liebfraumilch. Es war eine angenehme Umstellung von Cola auf Wein. Inzwischen ist mein Geschmack erwachsener und anspruchsvoller geworden – sowie auch deutsche Weine. Deutschland hat schon längst seinen Ruf für einfache, liebliche Schankweine abgeschüttelt und genießt steigende internationale Nachfrage für komplexe und langlebige Weine. Ich selbst bin ein großer Fan von deutschen Riesling.

Die Einführung der Grosses Gewächs oder „GG“ Klassifikation im Jahr 2001 von den Verband Deutscher Qualitäts- und Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) markiert eine Bewegung zu trockenen Weinen mit mehr Struktur und Terroir Ausdruck. Es war auch der Anfang der aufregenden Qualitätsrevolution deutscher Weine über die letzten 10 Jahre. Der Arbeit des VDP geht weiter, nicht nur um die Qualität zu sichern, sondern auch Weinetiketten für Konsumenten leichter verständlich zu machen.

Meine Eindrücke werden Sie nächste Woche während der VORPREMIERE GROSSES GEWÄCHS 2011 hier auf der Facebook Seite von genuss.magazin & wein.pur, sowie in englischer Sprache auf meinem Blog julia7ich.com lesen können. Ein Dialog wird mich sehr freuen.

My knuckles are white as I grip the handlebars tight and I am hanging my rear end out behind the bike seat to keep my weight back as far as possible as I hop from one stone-walled vineyard terrace down to the next. Thank goodness this is not the Wachau – the terraces are a little wider here in the Traisental!

Andreas Holzer, local vintner and my mountain bike guide in Traisental, stops to give me a chance to catch up with him. There is a delicate aroma of apple in the air and I look up to see an apple tree, its ripening fruit blushing in the late afternoon sun. Andreas points to vines around us and says, “In no other Austrian wine-growing area does Grüner Veltliner represent such a large proportion of territory. It makes up 63% of the Traisental vineyards. We are now standing in the Alte Setzen Vineyard from Markus Huber. He makes one of the region’s – no, one of the world’s – top Grüner Veltliners every year and has done much to raise the region’s profile.”
Really? Who in the world knows about Traisental? And why are the wines here so good and so inexpensive?
Pedalling through the Traisental terrain, I notice the landscape so typical for the wine growing areas along the Danube River west of Vienna. Many of the vineyards are terraced on hillsides, usually not quite as steep as the Wachau and thus the terraces are broader with several rows. Andreas points out the loess, decomposed material that has been deposited by the wind. “See these huge walls of loess on the side of the road? Sometimes it is several meters deep. But look ahead, do you see that vineyard? There is nearly no loess at all; the conglomerate base is completely exposed.” The Danube and Traisen Rivers function as climate regulators ensuring the circulation of warm air masses coming in from the Pannonian Plains to the east and the cold air from the deep forest district to the north. These are the perfect conditions for white wine varieties, in particular Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. It is quieter here and there is far less tourism than along other parts of the Danube, lending the area a peaceful and wholesome charm.
Wine is a cultural product with an identity that is rooted in climate, soil, and topography. Despite this, the Traisental appellation corresponds to a political border rather than to geological and meteorological attributes. The Traisental DAC corresponds exactly with the boundaries of the “Gerichtsbezirk St. Pölten Nord”. With a beginning metamorphosis of Austrian wine laws evolving from categories based on grape sugar content to wine laws based on geographical origins, one hopes that Austrian wine will eventually throw those political borders overboard. Andreas admits as much when he says, “Our soils are predominantly limestone conglomerate with loess top soil – perfect for Grüner Veltliner. The sites with little or no loess and less limestone are ideal for Riesling. I agree that the part of the Kremstal DAC that is south of the Danube River has more in common with Traisental than the part of the Kremstal to the north!” The DAC idea is based on establishing a geographic region of origin and identity that can be easily recognized by international consumers as a brand. With only 800 hectares of vineyards, Traisental remains a hidden secret. Despite this, in its short existence since 2006, the Traisental DAC is indeed contributing positively to the tiny region’s wine identity.
Grapes and wine have historically been one of the products of mixed agricultural farms in Traisental, and in all of eastern Austria for that matter. Only in the last two generations has one begun to see a shift to specialist production. The vineyard holding of a winery is still only two hectares. Despite their small size, Traisental wine producers have often had several different grape varieties and produce up to 30 different wines each vintage. The reason for this was to satisfy the demands of customers at the farm’s heuriger (wine tavern) where a significant portion of a farm’s products have traditionally been sold and consumed. This fractured structure has been both the charm and the curse of Traisental.
The Traisental DAC, established in 2006, recognizes Riesling and Grüner Veltliner as the best of what the Traisental has to offer. Wines from this geographic origin are single varietal wines that can be made from either variety and bottled either as “Classic” or as “Reserve”. No flavours of new oak or botrytis notes are allowed in either style. The “Classic” must show clear, crisp varietal character and have a minimum of 12% alcohol. The “Reserve” is harvested later and is more powerful and mineral with a minimum of 13% alcohol. This clearly defined concept is encouraging producers to concentrate on what is best suited to the region and international red wine varieties and other misfits are slowly being abandoned to fulfil the domestic demand for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling under the DAC labels.
If you take a look at a topographical and metrological map of Austria’s wine regions, one can see that the wine growing areas along the Danube from Krems to the borders of Vienna exhibit strong similarities. The top quality wines from Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram are all from Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Crystal clear varietal character as a voice, an amplifier, for terroir is sought. The use of new oak or inclusion of botrytized grapes to enhance flavour is frowned upon as short-term cosmetic that disguise terroir and do not contribute to longevity.

"Berg" vineyard at the (c)Markus Huber Winery

Andreas and I arrive at our destination the Donau Restaurant in Traismauer. This is a favourite of him and his young vintner colleagues because it is located directly on the river and has a large, pleasant outdoor eating area and a perfect room indoors for seminars, tastings and wine presentations. While dining on local fish specialties, Andreas presents several wines from various Traisental wineries. “For a long time, the only vintner that exported and was known outside of Traisental was Ludwig Neumayr. He can really be considered the father of high quality wines of international format in our region. But then along came Markus Huber, a very young vintner, and he has shown us all what can be done if you make no compromises and concentrate on the great terroir that we have in Traisental. He has really become a source of inspiration for the new generation of vintners here.”
Ludwig Neumayr and Markus Huber are both members of the vintner association Traditionsweingüter. The association includes many of the elite wineries of the winegrowing regions Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental and Wagram. For two decades, they have been working on a classification of vineyards based on long-term performance of these regions’ wines. The top 52 vineyards are called “Erste Lage”. The classification system does not yet hold any legal status nor has it been analyzed and approved by an official third party. Despite this, it does show visionary qualities. Austrian wines have been classified in the past by their grape sugar must content instead of origin. The DAC system is just in its early stages and will still evolve. Seen not only from a geological and meteorological standpoint, but culturally and from international marketing view, it would make sense to join these four political districts into one wine appellation and within that appellation make differentiations according to single vineyards.

Hedgehog cleaning the Donau Restaurant terrace at dusk (c)julia7ich

Fisher at sunset in Traisental (c)Julia7ich

As the sun sets we see a fisherman silhouetted against the river and a small hedgehog meanders over the terrace nibbling crumbs under the tables. I enjoy the peaceful idyll after a day of rock hopping on my bike through the Traisental. This secret place off the beaten track is home to untouched wine gems at very drinkable prices!

Finkus Bripp looks terrified and is securing his camera equipment. I am driving. “Last night you were talking about gently rolling vineyards, lush forests, and the leisurely pace of life in Mittelburgenland – the land of Blaufränkisch,” he says. “Why are we driving so fast?” We are trying to keep up with Clemens Reisner, one of the young new winemaking stars of the region. He is driving the Hans Igler Estate delivery van and we are following him to the Sonnengolf resort for a round of golf and an interview.

After warming up a bit on the driving range, Clemens and I stroll towards the first of 9 holes to tee off. A warm, dry breeze sweeps gently over the course and I note that it is coming in from the east. Clemens is able to adjust his swing accordingly. I am not a skilled golfer. “Climates that are good for vines are always climates where people feel comfortable, too. Our humidity and temperatures are regulated somewhat by Lake Neusiedl to the north, but we have less danger of Botrytis and birds than the regions closer to the lake! We are protected here by the Ödenburger Mountains to the north, Günser Mountains in the south, and the hills of the Bucklige Welt to the west. Our climate is warmer and drier here than in northern Burgenland and it is more strongly influenced by the warm Pannonian air masses reaching in from Hungary to the east.”

The entire province of Burgenland belonged to Hungary until 1921 when it was annexed to Austria post WW I. This area is a melting pot of Magyar, Slavic and Austrian cultures. Many of the towns have two names, one Croatian or Hungarian and the other name Austrian. Although the region escaped communism, it did not really begin to economically recover from the two World Wars until the 1980s. “After the wine scandal of 1986, Austria’s wine export completely collapsed. My grandfather, Hannes Igler, and other vintners in the area saw it as a chance to successfully market wines that were more authentic to their region. Mittelburgenland is predestined for red wine, but the fashion before the wine scandal was for off-dry and semi-sweet white wines.”

Hannes Igler truly was one of the doyens of the region. He was well-travelled in the great red wine regions of the world and admired Bordeaux greatly. Although he was one of the first in Austria to plant international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and to mature his wines in small new oak barrels. The success of the Igler “Volcano”, a blend of Blaufränkisch with international varieties, put Mittelburgenland on the map as an emerging red wine region in the 1990s. Other vintners in the region like Weninger and Gsellmann soon joined him in the same league. Initially it was the internationally styled blends that enjoyed favoured preference from domestic critics and consumers. Luckily the vintners of Mittelburgenland were convinced of the potential of their Blaufränkisch and didn’t grub it up in favour of more fashionable varieties.

Now past the fifth hole and confidently playing quite a good game, Clemens expresses a little criticism for his region. “We weren’t completely immune to the fashions of the time, though. By the end of the 1990s and the beginning of this millennium, Mittelburgenland vintners were often leaving their grapes to hang much too long and the wines often displayed over-ripe, rather jammy fruit and unfortunately often too much volatile acidity. To make matters worse, many exhibited a heavy and clumsy hand with oak.”

It was indeed an awkward time, but this time it was not just the leading wineries of the region that spurred change. After Austria joined the EU, the region qualified for subsidies for modernization of vinification facilities and rationalization of vineyards. The two major cooperatives in Burgenland were also under excellent management with highly qualified winemakers. The cooperatives implemented viticultural improvements, rigorous yield restrictions and replanting of vineyards to varieties more suited to the climate and soil. 55% of the vineyard area is now planted to Blaufränkisch. The two Mittelburgenland cooperatives, Winzerkeller Neckenmarkt and Vereinte Winzer Blaufränkischland have joined the ranks of wine producers in the region that produce consistently good quality. Regional pride grew and as wines became increasingly authentic they were applauded by the international press.

Clemens concentrates deeply at the tee for the 9^th hole. The air is still. He swings smooth and true and the ball sails. It lands on the green just a little over one and a half metres from the hole. Clemens smiles broadly and we continue our conversation as we walk towards the green. “I think the turning point is well demonstrated by the establishment of the Mittelburgenland DAC in 2005. It was clear to everybody on the Interprofessional Regional Committee that Blaufränkisch was not only the most suitable variety for our climate and soil. By that time we had also tracked two decades of single-vineyard examples of Blaufränkisch not only in Mittelburgenland, but throughout the province. The variety’s ability to express a unique terroir is well-proven and this point of difference is our way into the future.”

The loam and clay soils of Mittelburgenland are cool and have the capacity to store just enough water and moisture for the vines in long dry summers. Evening temperatures drop thanks to the surrounding forests ensuring that good acid structure is retained. Mittelburgenland Classic DAC is 100% Blaufränkisch, 100% from Mittelburgenland that has been matured in stainless steel or used barrels and casks that do not impart new oak flavours. Mittelburgenland Reserve DAC is also 100% Blaufränkisch from Burgenland, but may be matured in new oak if the vintner desires. The Classic may have up to 13% vol. alcohol while 13% is the minimum for the Reserve. After passing quality inspection for Qualitätswein aus Österreich (quality wine from Austria), both styles must also pass a tasting commission to determine that they fit the desired sensory profile.

Clemens putts his ball straight into the hole. The 9^th hole with only two strokes – I’m impressed! To celebrate our good game and a fun video shoot, we go to the region’s most reputed restaurant, Horvath. The restaurant is a modernized interpretation of a classic Austrian Gasthaus. We are hungry, so order the 4-course gourmet lunch. Clemens leads us through a tasting of typical wines from the region. Although Blaufränkisch is the main variety and the only variety allowed for the (DAC) appellation wines, Mittelburgenland can boast impressive diversity. Dry white wines from Welschriesling and Chardonnay are followed by Zweigelt, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

When asked about tourism in the region, Clemens says, “Well, it is not has heavily trafficked as the areas near Lake Neusiedl, of course. It is quieter here – night life is pretty quiet and I think that is what our visitors seek. There are plenty of athletic opportunities here from hiking, walking, and biking to golf. Mittelburgenland is also appreciated for its thermal waters and we have several excellent spas, like at Sonnengolf today. The spa hotels are superb and all of them have well-stocked selections of wines from Mittelburgenland!”

As we get into the car to depart for our next adventure, Finkus definitely appears less tense than in the early morning. He says, “Do you ever notice how wines and people reflect their surroundings? Mittelburgenland is open-hearted and approachable, but man do those wines have good concentration and persistence!”

The quality of grapes is defined by the balance between sugar, acid and phenolics such as anthocyanins, tannins, and flavour compounds. This essay will not examine the factors in establishing a vineyard, but rather the factors within the direct control of the vineyard manager in an existing vineyard that will affect the quality of grapes produced. The principal factors that will be examined are pruning, canopy management, yield reduction, soil management, water management, and pest and disease control.
Winter pruning is the first step a vineyard manager takes to create balance between leaf surface area and fruit volume to enhance fruit quality. Over-cropping stresses the vine causing weak growth and incomplete ripening. The vine compensates for severe pruning with vigorous vegetation causing shading and hindering ripening of fruit. During winter pruning, vines are cut back to a specific number of buds based on the variety, climate, site fertility, style of wine, possible legal restrictions and volume goals. French Camp Vineyards uses the Oxbow system (a two row, tow-behind tool carrier) to mechanically prune and farm 600 vineyard hectares of mostly quadrilateral spur-pruned vines. Vines are pruned to yield 220 hl/ha for wines that sell for under $8 a bottle. Manual pruning used to cost French Camp vineyards $0.40 per vine; with the Oxbow system it is now $0.15. (Wines & Vines Magazine) Querciabella has quite other goals for their premium Chianti Classico. Vines are manually pruned to yield 35 hl/ha of grapes with high aroma and tannin concentration. In Champagne high concentration of phenolics are not a desirable quality factor and although yield restrictions are set annually and have been as high as 83 hl/ha in the past (Stevenson, World Encyclopedia of Champagne), in 2010 yields were set at 10,500 kg/ha which translates to approximately 68 hl/ha. Generally, a total pruning weight of 1/5 to 1/10 the crop weight is ideal. A vineyard manager with a volume goal of 50 hl/ha may prune to 80 hl/ha as a sort of insurance policy, waiting until after fruit set before making further crop thinning decisions. The vineyard manager will also keep an eye on timing of pruning depending on whether or not it is a late or early ripening variety and to what the climate risks the vine is exposed. In areas that are prone to spring frost, by postponing winter pruning to just before budbreak, flowering can be delayed to hopefully avoid frost during the pollination period.
The goal of canopy management is to promote the health of the vine and achieve full physiological ripeness of fruit with a good balance between sugar, acid and phenolics such as anthocyanins, tannins, and flavour compounds for the style of wine that will be made. A loose and well-aerated canopy and a ratio of around 10-15 cm ² leaf surface area per gram of fruit will not only enhance photosynthesis – it also helps prevent fungal diseases and potential nest areas for vine pests. (Sunlight into Vines, Dr. Richard Smart) Techniques involved include shoot thinning and positioning, leaf removal, and crop thinning. Canopy management affects not only the current year’s crop; it affects the amount of sunlight on developing buds and determines how fruitful they will be the following year. Canopy management actually begins in spring with shoot positioning on the trellis. In vineyards of the Veneto region of Northern Italy that have problems with fruit set due to vigour, they have found that tipping young shoots before bloom changes the vine’s hormonal balance and enhances a better and more even fruit set. Phillip Frees of Vilaforté in South Africa removes leaves in the fruit zone of Sauvignon Blanc at fruit set, stating that sunburn is actually avoided by giving fruit a chance to adjust early and naturally to its sunny environment and undesirable grassy components in the final wine are eliminated. Likewise he has found that shoot positioning brings higher tartaric and lower malic acid with the same sugar content resulting in softer acid, more delicate fruit and improved mouthfeel. Gary Wood of Montana wines in New Zealand retrained his vigorous Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard to a split canopy which improved physiological ripeness of the grapes as well as increasing the yield enough to compensate for the investment in materials and labour necessary to make the change. In some regions hail can devastate the vine’s canopy, if not to the fruit and the entire vine itself. Wineries that can afford it in Mendoza, Argentina often invest in nets to protect their hail-prone vineyards when they can afford the investment.
Crop-thinning may also begin shortly after fruit set. Because Austria’s St. Laurent variety is so susceptible to coulure, the Juris winery in Burgenland cuts away half of each bunch of St. Laurent grapes just after fruit set to promote better ripening and prevent fungus with a more loosely set bunch. Juris owner Axel Stiegelmar prefers this to crop thinning post verasion stating that cutting away fruit so late wastes the vine’s energy whereas cluster division results in a higher skin to juice ratio with more flavourful grapes and riper finer tannins. In other regions and/or for other varieties, green harvesting is practiced as verasion begins. The initial abundance of fruit can result in smaller berries for some varieties such as Zinfandel. Less ripe or excess bunches are removed to channel the remaining sunshine and nutrients into fewer, smaller berries to concentrate flavour and enhance ripeness of tannins. Crop thinning is not necessary every vintage or in every climate for achieving the best quality grapes. As an example, looking at the past decade in Burgundy one sees that the 2005 and 2009 vintages, both rated with the highest quality, were also the highest yielding. At Domaine Grivot in Burgundy green harvesting of Pinot Noir is not normally practiced. Etienne Grivot states that if 20% of the crop is thinned, you don’t end up with 20% less juice, but 10%, thus increasing the juice to skin ratio and diluting grape flavour compounds and anthocyanin content derived from the skins.
Methods used to maintain or improve soil structure and vitality are important factors in determining the health of vines and the quality of fruit. Methods used include soil aeration, weed control, cover crops, and fertilization. After harvest the alleyways between the vine rows are ploughed for soil aeration and in climates with severe winter frosts, such as Columbia Valley, Washington this opportunity is taken to simultaneously heap earth up around the base of the vines to cover the sensitive graft joint from freezing temperatures which could kill the vine. In spring, the earth is ploughed back, fertilized (sometimes organic or bio-dynamic compost is added at this time) and the ground is levelled. This provides nutrients that will be brought to the vines roots by rain or irrigation in the spring before flowering to promote vine fruitfulness. Mineral elements that can be added are urea, potassium, phosphorus, zinc, boron and magnesium. Lack of enough nutrients in the soil may lead to stuck fermentations and poor quality wine. Too much fertilization can not only be detrimental to the environment, it can stimulate vegetative growth to such an extent that it is detrimental to the ripening of fruit and result in meagre, herbaceous wines. Excessive use of potassium can also increase pH which can cause difficulties in wine stability in vinification. After the first ploughing, the vines are desuckered to prevent the vinifera part of the vine from establishing its own roots. While expensive, some viticulturists will seed for specific legumes and other high-nitrogen plants which promote soil nutrients and aeration and desirable micro-organisms in the soil. Another aspect of cover crops that is advantageous to soil is their ability to attract beneficial insects and thus reduce the need for driving the tractor through the vineyard to spray, thus compacting the soil with heavy machinery. Ridge Vineyards found that money saved on insecticides and herbicides helped to significantly mitigate the costs of seeding for cover crops. The disadvantage of cover crops in low fertility soils is that they may lead to too much competition for nourishment with the vines and cause atypical ageing in wines. After fruit set is the time for mowing cover crops, or weeds in open-cultivation, and ploughing them into the soil, providing both aeration and vine nutrition. At this time again, non-organic vine fertilization may be added to the soil.
Just like nutrients, vines require water, not too much and not too little. In regions where irrigation is permitted, many vineyards have systems installed. Although flooding and watering via furrows have been used in the past and still are in some countries and regions, most modern wineries employ drip irrigation. Spray irrigation is used primarily only to prevent frost damage to buds and flowers in spring. Availability of water is crucial for vines during the budding and flowering stages, but after fruit set mild water stress is desirable. Too much water encourages vines to produce shallow root systems and vigorous canopies with large grape berry clusters that may not achieve sufficient physiological ripeness. On the other hand, severe water stress will shut down photosynthesis and the development of sugars and phenolic compounds in grapes. A balanced supply of water will depend on a variety of factors including rainfall and drainage properties of the vineyard. Modern drip irrigation systems in dry arid climates, such as at Cayuse Winery in Columbia Valley have computer-monitored sensors placed deep in the vineyard soil in strategic positions. In this way, Cayuse owner, Christophe Baron supplies the soil with moisture at necessary key times such as during flowering, fruit set and the onset of vegetation. Baron also practices partial root drying and restricts irrigation to the absolute minimum from verasion to harvest when no more shoot growth is desired and the plant’s energy should be devoted solely to ripening its fruit. In very wet, rainy climates or vintages there is little a vineyard manager can do. In the poor St. Emilion vintage 2002, Château Valandraud strived to keep its ripening grapes from swelling and becoming diluted from excess water by spreading plastic tarps over the soil. The wine was declassified as a result. Fertigation, the method of adding fertilization elements to the irrigation water, can be a more efficient and economical way of fertilization that that described above with soil management.
Pests and disease can be detrimental to grape quality and must also be controlled by the vineyard manager. Much prevention can be achieved through the promotion of beneficial insects with cover crops or with good canopy aeration through methods already mentioned above. Pests can harm the vine by damaging or consuming leaves, fruit and wood, interfering with photosynthesis, health of the vine and quality of fruit. Pests can also be vectors of viral and bacterial disease. With the use of pheromone traps the spraying of insecticides can be limited to sprays that target specific pests during shorter time frames. Fruit that has been damaged by birds or other pests is susceptible to acetobacter infections and bunch rot. The vineyards dedicated to sweet wine production at the Sepp Moser estate are located near Lake Neusiedl in Austria, which is also a natural habitat for a multitude of birds. Birds can not only damage fruit, large flocks can plunder an entire vineyard in just a few hours. 8 km of nets per hectare protect Moser’s vines from these large vineyard pests. The fungal disease oidium attacks vines and can survive over winter in buds and diminish fruit set, reduce yield, and delay ripening. Fruit infected by this mildew tastes mouldy. Oidium is generally prevented in conventional viticulture through spraying with sulphur, while organic producers such as Sepp Moser in Austria are advocates of fennel oil. Peronospera also attacks all green parts of the vine, especially young leaves. When severe, leaves will drop resulting in reduced photosynthesis diminishing sugar and anthocyanin production in grapes. The classic treatment is sprays containing copper, but these are only effective for around 10 days or until the next heavy rainfall. Because the heavy use of copper over many years can result in soil toxicity, the EU limits this to 6 kg per hectare for conventional viticulture and 3 kg per hectare for organic. Vineyard managers can install weather stations in the vineyard that monitor temperature and humidity to help minimize their use of copper. Spraying of potentially toxic substances is not done in the weeks before the harvest. There are many treatments available to the vineyard manager to combat pests and disease, which ones are employed will depend on legal regulations and the philosophy of the winery. Costs of potential damage and crop loss are weighed against the costs of prevention and control.
There are numerous factors within the direct control of the vineyard manger that will affect the quality of grapes. Whether for a high volume mid-market wine or for a super-premium icon wine, balance between fruit volume and canopy as well as balance of the vine in its environment are the basis for high quality fruit. High quality will mean different things for different wine styles, grape varieties, and targeted market segment of the wine to be produced. Pruning, canopy management, yield reduction, soil management, water management, and pest and disease control will all be adjusted to the climate, preconditions in the vineyard, and the materials and budget at hand. Once harvest arrives, the vineyard manager will work closely with the chief winemaker to coordinate picking and ensure that the grapes come to the crush pad in optimal condition.

Note: The essay above is written in study preparation for MW exams.

Weinviertel DAC

“There is a rather endearing curse in the German language. When you are frustrated with someone and want to send them to the end of the world, you tell them to go ‘where the pepper grows’,” laughs Marion Ebner-Ebenauer. “I used to think that meant somewhere far away and isolated like Africa, Madagascar, or the most rural parts of the Weinviertel. But now with the international success of our peppery Grüner Veltliner under the geographic label of origin ‘Weinviertel DAC’, the place where ‘the pepper grows’ has gained a pleasant second meaning.”

Marion is taking me on a tour of the Weinviertel in her vintage VW beetle and I am impressed that this old red convertible successfully climbs each vineyard slope without a sputter! We are just past the borders of Vienna touring vineyards of Langenzersdorf, Bisamberg und Hagenbrunn. We refresh ourselves along the way with typical heuriger fare of various salads and bread with different delicious spreads as well as the region’s famous Marchfeld asparagus. The Weinviertel is the bread basket of Austria. Most of the country’s grains are grown here and it is also a primary source of fresh vegetables for the nation’s capitol city. Austria’s heuriger culture was born when a sanction passed by Emperor Franz-Josef II in 1784 allowed farmers to sell their produce and products directly to consumers and this culture of rustic wine taverns continues to thrive.

“The biggest difference between now and then is that farmers have begun to specialize. This is particularly true of grape growers. As specialization has increased, so also has the quality of our region’s wines.” explains the young vintner. Marion slips on her red leather driving gloves, a chic little necessity for manoeuvring without power steering. She steps on the gas and we head to our last stop before leaving the southern Weinviertel. 

At the restaurant of the Imperial Festival Palace Hof, we are served a wine labelled Weinviertel DAC, which always designates peppery wines from 100% Grüner Veltliner with crisp fruit, medium body and refreshing acidity. Marion explains, “The more powerful, full-bodied Grüner Veltliners are labelled Weinviertel Reserve DAC. These wines were harvested later and have more opulent fruit and black pepper aromas.” Our surroundings are impressive: the Imperial Festival Palace Hof is Austria’s largest rural palace complex. The palace, gardens and farm manor have recently been restored to their former splendour and intended purpose as a venue for magnificent celebrations. The experience tours and festivals offered here are highly recommendable here for they allow would-be time-travellers the opportunity to explore the world of Prince Eugene and Empress Maria Theresa in a manner that is fascinating, exciting, and far more real than any museum.

As we cruise towards the north, ever further from Vienna, wide spaces, big skies and rolling hills open before us. The countryside becomes much more sparsely populated. One wonders what inspired this young, cosmopolitan woman to move from the exciting bustle of the Austrian capital to this lonely, rural place. “I met my husband just after we each finished our wine studies. I travelled a lot while working as a negociant. After we married, we decided to take over his family’s winery in Poysdorf. I truly appreciate the peace and unspoiled authenticity of this region. The people here are friendly, yet quiet, and when they do speak they certainly have very well-defined opinions! The Weinviertel Grüner Veltliner reflects the character of the people here: vibrant, harmonious, and distinctly peppery.”

We drive through romantic cellar alleys that typify the wine villages of the Weinviertel. Farmers used to make their wines in cellars dug deep and long into the loess slopes just steps away from their vines. Rows of rustic, colourfully painted little wooden doors now serve as places to store vineyard equipment and machinery. Professional vintners have long moved to more spacious and modern equipped quarters. A few of the cellars have been refurbished into quaint seasonal heuriger, that open during the harvest, when sturm – musty wine in its first stages of fermentation is served to thirsty tourists and vineyard labourers sharing vintage news and gossip.

“I’m not the only one who adores the Weinviertel,” exclaims Marion. “People from all over the world come here seeking rejuvenation and refuge from their busy lives. They visit the healing thermal waters of Laa an der Thaya and the spa hotels and vintner B&Bs in wine villages throughout the region. Restaurants with good regional wine lists, Buchingers Gasthaus zur Alte Schule or Zum Grünen Baum are much appreciated. My favourite wine bar is Wino in Poysdorf. ”

On all of our visits to eateries, whether simple rustic heuriger, country inn or elegant spa hotel restaurant, I am pleasantly surprised by the diversity of regional wines offered. “Half of Austria’s – no, half of the world’s Grüner Veltliner grows in the loess soils of the Weinviertel, but we have other grape varieties as well. Riesling also loves the primary rock and Pinot Blanc adores our limestone. Most of the base wine for Austria’s sparkling wine brands are sourced from our region’s crisp, refreshing Welschriesling. Everyone makes at least a few bottles of charming, fruity red from regional varieties and we even have a couple vintners specialized in sweet wines like Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein.”

This time, as we return to the car, it doesn’t start, but with Marion’s practical forethought, it is pointed downhill and we have an easy jump-start and coast stylishly into the historic wine city of Retz. Retz is famed for its 20 km labyrinth of wine cellars beneath the city. Fascinating tours of the vaults and wine tastings are offered daily.

The Weinviertel, Austria’s dreamy giant is peppered with many opportunities for rejuvenation in an unspoiled rural landscape. Simplicity and unspoiled authenticity make the Weinviertel a very luxurious place to escape modern day hectic and “go where the pepper grows”.

I have recently discovered a fabulous summer event here in Austria. If you know anyone traveling here, for example for the Salzburger Festspiele, let them know about the Baroque Costume Celebration in the Imperial Festival Palace Hof just 60 km east of Vienna on the border to Slovakia.

This is Austria’s largest rural palace complex and it has recently been restored to its former splendor and intended purpose as a venue for magnificent celebrations. The Imperial Festival Palace Hof is a magnificent Baroque ensemble with an exquisite palace, terraced garden and idyllic manor farm. You can explore the world of Prince Eugene and Empress Maria Theresa through a Baroque Costume Celebration on August 13th, 2011. Stunning costumes for the entire family are provided for rent. The programme starts at 6 PM with a musical welcome in the Palace’s Court of Honour. Music, dance performances, acrobatic stunts, equestrian art and carriage rides are offered well into the night. At dusk 6,000 candles are lit in the formal garden where you will enjoy culinary treats, including freshly baked bread from the wood stove, selected game dishes, and tempting desserts. Refreshing beverages and the region’s famous white wine, Grüner Veltliner from the Weinviertel appellation are offered from the Fountain Grotto. The evening culminates with spectacular fireworks.

Vienna 5^th, 6^th, 7^th and 8^th Districts

It’s the second day of our Vienna wine bar tour and I am really getting a feel for this wine city. Today we continue just outside of yesterday’s first district, but still within the Gürtel. Continue reading »

Vienna 1^st District, Inner City

Ruth, Sylvia and I have planned a girl’s night out in Vienna. You are welcome to join us, but beware! We are going to skip the city’s high brow restaurants AND the heurigers – we’re looking for chic, upbeat excitement. There is no better place to get an overview of Austria’s dynamic, trendy wine scene than at the wine bars of Vienna! Continue reading »

What’s the buzz about Austrian wine? What do Grüner Veltliner and water skiing on the Danube River have in common? Blaufränkisch and fast cars? Not in the know? Please join me on my Austrian Wine Adventure Tour. Meet racy young Austrian vintners and let “peppery fruit” and “mineral finish” spice up your life!

The Austrian Wine Adventure Tour is a series of articles and videos about adventures in Austrian wine country. It’s an insider’s view of the best wine places to go, the juiciest insider secrets, and just who is shakin’ and makin’ the dynamic Austrian wine scene.

This is the book on Austria’s predominant red wine grape variety. It is a crossing of Blaufänkisch and St. Laurent developed at the world’s oldest school of enology in Klosterneuburg, Austria. Professor Zweigelt originally named it Rotburger, but it is now most commonly known by his name.

I was co-author of this book along with several colleagues. It is available in German here.